Hum When Backing
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Trial and error making the rear pulley hum go away is not the best bet, especially when a loose belt also reduces this noise. Measuring tape is OK if you can get it lined up, tight on centers and read accurately. My alignment was off only 1/8" using the stamped adjuster marks and caused the intermittent belt rubbing noise at factory recommended tension. You can measure much better with a simple alignment tool and cap plugs in the hollow rear axle to index centers. The swingarm pivot bolt already has a dimple at center.
First I make sure the right side is correct for belt tension then bring the left side to the same distance as indicated on the tool. The alignment tool is really just a straight measuring rod with ends bent to touch centers. You don't need to measure the exact distance, just make sure it is the same both sides. You can fabricate the tool easily but here is one example:
http://www.debrix.com/Motion-Pro-Rea...p/20119-m1.htm
Hope this helps
First I make sure the right side is correct for belt tension then bring the left side to the same distance as indicated on the tool. The alignment tool is really just a straight measuring rod with ends bent to touch centers. You don't need to measure the exact distance, just make sure it is the same both sides. You can fabricate the tool easily but here is one example:
http://www.debrix.com/Motion-Pro-Rea...p/20119-m1.htm
Hope this helps
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 11
From: Central Illinois
Trial and error making the rear pulley hum go away is not the best bet, especially when a loose belt also reduces this noise. Measuring tape is OK if you can get it lined up, tight on centers and read accurately. My alignment was off only 1/8" using the stamped adjuster marks and caused the intermittent belt rubbing noise at factory recommended tension. You can measure much better with a simple alignment tool and cap plugs in the hollow rear axle to index centers. The swingarm pivot bolt already has a dimple at center.
First I make sure the right side is correct for belt tension then bring the left side to the same distance as indicated on the tool. The alignment tool is really just a straight measuring rod with ends bent to touch centers. You don't need to measure the exact distance, just make sure it is the same both sides. You can fabricate the tool easily but here is one example:
http://www.debrix.com/Motion-Pro-Rea...p/20119-m1.htm
Hope this helps
First I make sure the right side is correct for belt tension then bring the left side to the same distance as indicated on the tool. The alignment tool is really just a straight measuring rod with ends bent to touch centers. You don't need to measure the exact distance, just make sure it is the same both sides. You can fabricate the tool easily but here is one example:
http://www.debrix.com/Motion-Pro-Rea...p/20119-m1.htm
Hope this helps
I may pick one of those up before my next tire change...that tool looks awesome.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I made a redneck special tool last night and it is out of alignment by about .125. I didn't have a big enough wrench to fix it though.
Normally I would go buy it but the whole reason I took it to a shop to have this done is so I wouldn't have to buy the tools (bead breaker, spoons ect.). So I am gonna give the shop a call and have him fix it.
Now the interesting bit. The belt is rubbing the outside flange. There are slight marks on the bottom half of the belt teeth.
However, the brakes seem to be what is actually making the noise. After I saw the belt I expected the belt was the culprit but the noise just seemed louder on the brake side.
So I hosed the caliper down with brake cleaner (as a temporary lube). The noise completely went away. After it dried the noise came back.
Looking at the brake, the inside pad is not parallel to the rotor. It is cocked over with a gap on the aft side and touching on the fwd side. Without taking it all apart its hard to know exactly what is going on, but at this point since i have to take it back to the shop anyway I didn't tear into it.
I have taken my cars and bikes to a shop a combined 3 times in my life to a shop and 3 times I have had problems...... This is why I always do my own work....... I should have just bought the tools.
Normally I would go buy it but the whole reason I took it to a shop to have this done is so I wouldn't have to buy the tools (bead breaker, spoons ect.). So I am gonna give the shop a call and have him fix it.
Now the interesting bit. The belt is rubbing the outside flange. There are slight marks on the bottom half of the belt teeth.
However, the brakes seem to be what is actually making the noise. After I saw the belt I expected the belt was the culprit but the noise just seemed louder on the brake side.
So I hosed the caliper down with brake cleaner (as a temporary lube). The noise completely went away. After it dried the noise came back.
Looking at the brake, the inside pad is not parallel to the rotor. It is cocked over with a gap on the aft side and touching on the fwd side. Without taking it all apart its hard to know exactly what is going on, but at this point since i have to take it back to the shop anyway I didn't tear into it.
I have taken my cars and bikes to a shop a combined 3 times in my life to a shop and 3 times I have had problems...... This is why I always do my own work....... I should have just bought the tools.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8,480
Likes: 3,867
From: San Diego, CA
Not much worse than having to go back and have it fixed again. I'm with you on doing as much as you can yourself. I guess it was the brake pads after all.
Maybe they just put the pads back on opposite sides from where they were.
John
Maybe they just put the pads back on opposite sides from where they were.
John
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