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i've ordered some ebc hh pads for the front. regarding the actual brake fluid, i appreciate it's dot 5, but does it matter which brand??? and is it the same for the front and rear?
also, i've seen my local store sells dot 4 and dot 5.1 but no dot 5! is dot 5.1 ok???
thanks again
Last edited by rotherdrummer; Jun 5, 2014 at 06:03 AM.
If you reverse bleed from the caliper, it should purge all the air in a few seconds.
the process does not have to be tedious.
borrow a vacuum bleeder, or buy one roughly 35 clams and you can be done in a matter of minuets, i bled my front brake line w/o one two about 4 hrs when i changed out bars and i used one it took about 5, minuets , but should warn if you use one be careful it will suck sure reservoir dry quick, also try a bike shop for dot 5 and it should be the same front and back , if you dont have a service manual get one
Last edited by flicksport1200; Jun 5, 2014 at 09:00 AM.
the dot 5 stuff seems to be pretty hard to come by in the uk! so i've played it safe and ordered some from a harley dealership on ebay... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171178631189
seeing that you are in the UK the brake fluid may be different than the USA ...check the resv. cap. it should be printed on it what to use...also in the picture, you can see grooves cut into the pads..as long as you can see the grooves the pads are good...
Well Drummer I hate to be a Richard BUT
I see a rear master cylinder failure in your future.
In fact it may already be damaged as you say the rear brake is dodgey now.
on saturday i swapped my front brake pads. no problems. last night i changed the brake fluid on the front and back. i'm no expert, but it seemed to me like i had (or still have!) air in the system some fluid would come out, then it would suck back up the tube a bit. there were always gaps i.e. a bit of fluid, some air, a bit of fluid, some air, etc. i'm hoping that air was escaping from the rubber tube and not going in to the brake line, but i'm learning as i go. the bottom line is, my front brakes feel a bit sharper now with the new pads and fluid, so they're certainly not any worse, but how do i know if there's air in the brake line?? changing the fluid on my rear brake hasn't made it any worse, but unfortunately it hasn't improved it either. the rear brake is still hard to press so it seems there is pressure, but nothng really happens - it's extremely weak braking. the fluid has been changed and there's plenty of life in the pads. any ideas?? could this be air again?
cHarley - do you think i need to do the reverse bleed you mentioned previously?.....
Originally Posted by cHarley
When flushing old fluid, reverse bleeding will push the old fluid you're trying to get rid of back into the master cylinder reservoir where it's harder to deal with. With forward bleeding, the old fluid can easily be directed out of the system using a piece of tubing inserted on the bleed valve and into a container.
IME, reverse bleeding work best when you're only trying to bleed air from the system, which the OP may want/need to do after the flush is complete.
Last edited by rotherdrummer; Jun 10, 2014 at 02:56 AM.
I recently replaced the front and back brake pads on my 97 softail custom and the back brakes seem to be sticking causing my rotor to get hot does anyone have any ideas
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