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The Dyno RoomA special room dedicated for Dyno tuning products, troubleshooting and results. All Gearheads and Dyno Operators are welcome here as well as the guys that are new to tuning. Please see the special rules for this section before posting.
Power Vision is not just a stage 1 tuner and 583 cams cannot use a stock map. AFR and timing are much different and you bike will noticeably run like crap. Power Vision is in fact a very powerful ECM flash tuner. Power Vision and TTS have similar capabilities and once again, it will come down to what tuner the shop is experienced and comfortable tuning with.
With FP3, I've heard that they have maps for some cams. However, Any canned maps for cams, head work, big bore are STARTER maps...meaning they will get you by, but you should get your bike dyno tuned to maximize its potential. This goes for any tuning device whether it's FP3, PV, TTS, etc.
I am going out on the limb here: Good luck in finding a shop that will accurately "tune" your bike running aftermarket cams and a FP3 or in my case the LED Fuelpak
Why did I buy a Power Vision and Auto tune kit (on the way, not yet installed) if I should still take it to a shop and pay more money to have them dyno it? PV give you the ability to do what a shop would do on a dyno session.
I am going out on the limb here: Good luck in finding a shop that will accurately "tune" your bike running aftermarket cams and a FP3 or in my case the LED Fuelpak
Why did I buy a Power Vision and Auto tune kit (on the way, not yet installed) if I should still take it to a shop and pay more money to have them dyno it? PV give you the ability to do what a shop would do on a dyno session.
The power vision is more user friendly with WinPV on your PC. After I went to stage 2 with 57H cams, I ended up giving V&H several attempts at creating my tune. But without a dyno, you can't see live how the engine is behaving. After my failed attempts at FP3, I bought a PV because the Dyno tuner I took my bike to used Dynojet for their runs/tuning. Getting it right with a canned tune or even a custom tune without a dyno is a crap shoot at best.
The other IMPORTANT thing to remember if you go to a Dyno tuner.....make sure you tell them you want the cruising/idle tuned as well as WOT. My dyno tuner did a great job, but they tune for WOT performance only. In their own words, "cruise tuning is a byproduct of the WOT tuning process". Meaning they tune for the greatest power gains on the graph. This doesn't necessarily translate to good/great cruising tuning. I ended up making drastic changes to the tune after the dyno to get the cruising right. Not trying to spook you, but a proper tune through all the gears/RPM ranges is not a simple thing, even for an experienced tuner. If you're like most of us, we spend 90% of our time between 1,400-3,000 rpm. The WOT power is nice, but how often is your wrist in that position?
Last edited by petejoe43; Jun 4, 2017 at 03:31 PM.
The power vision is more user friendly with WinPV on your PC. After I went to stage 2 with 57H cams, I ended up giving V&H several attempts at creating my tune. But without a dyno, you can't see live how the engine is behaving. After my failed attempts at FP3, I bought a PV because the Dyno tuner I took my bike to used Dynojet for their runs/tuning. Getting it right with a canned tune or even a custom tune without a dyno is a crap shoot at best.
The other IMPORTANT thing to remember if you go to a Dyno tuner.....make sure you tell them you want the cruising/idle tuned as well as WOT. My dyno tuner did a great job, but they tune for WOT performance only. In their own words, "cruise tuning is a byproduct of the WOT tuning process". Meaning they tune for the greatest power gains on the graph. This doesn't necessarily translate to good/great cruising tuning. I ended up making drastic changes to the tune after the dyno to get the cruising right. Not trying to spook you, but a proper tune through all the gears/RPM ranges is not a simple thing, even for an experienced tuner. If you're like most of us, we spend 90% of our time between 1,400-3,000 rpm. The WOT power is nice, but how often is your wrist in that position?
I am going out on the limb here: Good luck in finding a shop that will accurately "tune" your bike running aftermarket cams and a FP3 or in my case the LED Fuelpak
Why did I buy a Power Vision and Auto tune kit (on the way, not yet installed) if I should still take it to a shop and pay more money to have them dyno it? PV give you the ability to do what a shop would do on a dyno session.
There is a possible alternative to going to a Dyno, but you'll need a really good person with serious tuning skills to pull it off. You could run the data logger, then you would need someone with experience with Megalogviewer or another top o the line log viewer to look at your logs and tune from there. Not saying this is the recommended method, but if you're far from a Dyno, this could be an option. I'm not your guy, I know just enough to be dangerous.....if you know what I'm saying!
Last edited by petejoe43; Jun 6, 2017 at 09:56 PM.
take e a ride and look at the spark plugs. If way off tune ( which it is not judging from the sound) the plugs (porcelain at the spark gap tips)) should have a nice sandy brown color ( white =too lean, carbon black dark, which yours is not since i did not see smoke coming out of the exhaust). Hope this helps.
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