I did. About 2 more inches. Took it for a spin and seems comfortable as hell. I really won't know until I can get some more seat time.

 

Nice. Up about the same height at the fairing?

 

Pretty close yes

 

I had the Ergo Backs on my 12 FLHTK and did not have to change any cables or wiring. Now I have a 15 FLHTK with the Ergo Ups and same thing no change to hydraulics or electrical. Also, fairing removal on the new Rushmores is waaayyyy easier than on previous Touring models.

 

did u have to remove the guages above the infotainment before removing the radio. as it says n the manual. thanks. don

 

Would you happen to have a pic of the ergo up on a ultra limited ?

 

h

How did it go with the 14's? I am about to dive in right now and I saw this post. Any tips before I get started

 

I have a 2014 Ultra Limited. I Replaced stock handle bars with Khrome Werks 2+2 Sweeper (300519). Basically, if moves your hands up 2” and back 2”. No matter what your read here, it was worth every ounce of learning I got out of it.

There are a few hurdles you have to jump if you are going to put longer handlebars on a 2014 touring bike. I did purchase the harness extenders for left and right-side controls as well and the extender for heated grips but did not use the heated grips extender (really didn’t need the controls extenders as well but I used them to relive any chance of stress on the plugs). Seems about 2015 or 2016 Harley change the design of the throttle by wire harness (TBW) that made it easier for you to change handlebars. First, when you go to remove the twist grip throttle (TGT) you will find a green connector about 8 inches from the twist grip throttle down the handlebars. The TBW with the green connector will need to be pulled up out of the old handlebars towards the TGT and unplugged then the TGT can be set down and the other side of the TBW can be pulled out from the center of the handlebars. When you go to install the original TBW in the new handlebars you will soon figure out the green connector is the root of all evil. It will not fit in the new handlebars without having to be forced. This is due to the indentation on the new handlebars up top by the area where the controls mount. This indentation is for where your controls wire runs under the clamp for the front brake. As a result of trying to get that green connector back in, forcing it will cause the connector/wires to be damaged. You will complete the installation and when you start your bike you will get an check engine light and possibly codes on the ECM telling you there are problems with the TGT; P1512, P2122, P2127, P2138, B2106, B2141, B2146. Your throttle will not respond or you will be in crawl mode. Here is how I worked through the problem no one told me was coming. First, I purchased a new TGT, one that was not specific for my bike (CVO twist grip throttle part# 32310-08A). If I remember right it was for a 2016 and up. When you purchase the new TGT you have to purchase new electrical termination ends to put on the new TGT. You will need 2 male connectors for the heated grips (Terminal Pin #18-#22AWG part# 72990-01) and 6 female/socket electrical connectors (Terminal Socket electrical Connector part# 69200859) for the TBW. De-Pin the 6-pin plug on the end of the original TBW, cut the ends off the new TBW harness and install the new socket connectors on it. De-Pin the heated grips plug on the original TBW harness. Cut the black and white ends off the new harness (heated grips) and install the new male connectors. Install the new socket connectors (6) into the old plug of the TBW after you have installed the TBW into the handlebars. There will be 6 wires on the new TBW harness, 3 wires in a black jacket and 3 wires in a yellow jacket. There are numbers (1-6) on the back of the original TBW plug. Yellow jacket wires go in 1-3. Black wire is 1, White wire is 2, Red wire is 3. Black jacket wires go into slots 4-6. Black wire is 4, White wire is 5, Red wire is 6. Also, install the male connectors into the old heated grips plug after install the harness into the handlebars. The heated grips are black to black and white to white. NOTE: I also put heat shrink on the entire length of the TBW harness and actually pushed the harness through the new handlebars to avoid damage to the wires by pulling it through.

Side note, after I completed the installation of the new TBW harness I tested the install by turning on the bike to check for codes. When I turned the ignition on, I had no infotainment system nor did I have any gauges. I unplugged all the connections I had just made up from installing the handlebars and figured out I got all my gauges and infotainment system back when I unplugged the left side control wire harness. I had a pinched wire in the harness somewhere. I replaced both the left and the right-side control wire harnesses just to be safe. Wire harness left-side part# 69200178 and Wire harness right-side part# 69200179. Installed everything and checked for codes. I first had to clear them all and then shut off the bike. Then start the bike and let it run for a minute then shut it down. I then went in and checked for any codes, there were none. Also, make sure you cover your tank and front fender and one other tip, zip tie your front faring to the handlebar mount area to prevent it from free falling to your front fender and giving you a heart attack, new front fender is around $1,000.

 

Older thread, but I'll add I put the Khrome Werks 2+2's on my 2014 UL recently, the wiring was a little tight as I chose to run ALL the wiring inside the bars and they are 1" diameter. As long as you take your time, it goes smoothly and I didn't have any issues. I didn't use any wiring extensions, the only things I purchased for the job were the bars themselves and a better triple tree clamp.