Changing fork lowers
Right before you screw the fork cap on. Pour it in a little bit at a time and pump the leg in between pouring it all in.
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From: Central Illinois
The bottom fork bolt comes out without an impact (usually) if you loosen it before you remove the forks, right after removing the wheel and axle. I want to say its a 6mm allen. A long shank metric allen socket with ratchet would work best.
Pretty much have to remove the fork assembly, one side at a time, to replace the lower. I made a clamp that looks like the one in the manual so I could chuck the clamp in the vise to make it easier. Putting back on the spring retaining top cap is much easier if you have the fork tube mounted that way also.
The manual tells you the process for putting in the oil, it requires the spring to be out and fork tube collapsed and you fill the tube to a certain distance below the top of the tube. Then pull the tube full extension and put in spring and top cap. After you get the tube back into the triple tree and it partially tightened then put on the big top cap, tighten, then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower tree. Then do the other side.
I bought a tool on ebay that was identical to the tool in the manual for installing the fork seals. Was pretty low priced and much more efficient and no chance of damaging anything with it. Works on the slide hammer principle, but its one piece.
Pretty much have to remove the fork assembly, one side at a time, to replace the lower. I made a clamp that looks like the one in the manual so I could chuck the clamp in the vise to make it easier. Putting back on the spring retaining top cap is much easier if you have the fork tube mounted that way also.
The manual tells you the process for putting in the oil, it requires the spring to be out and fork tube collapsed and you fill the tube to a certain distance below the top of the tube. Then pull the tube full extension and put in spring and top cap. After you get the tube back into the triple tree and it partially tightened then put on the big top cap, tighten, then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower tree. Then do the other side.
I bought a tool on ebay that was identical to the tool in the manual for installing the fork seals. Was pretty low priced and much more efficient and no chance of damaging anything with it. Works on the slide hammer principle, but its one piece.
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Farmingdale, New York
The bottom fork bolt comes out without an impact (usually) if you loosen it before you remove the forks, right after removing the wheel and axle. I want to say its a 6mm allen. A long shank metric allen socket with ratchet would work best.
Pretty much have to remove the fork assembly, one side at a time, to replace the lower. I made a clamp that looks like the one in the manual so I could chuck the clamp in the vise to make it easier. Putting back on the spring retaining top cap is much easier if you have the fork tube mounted that way also.
The manual tells you the process for putting in the oil, it requires the spring to be out and fork tube collapsed and you fill the tube to a certain distance below the top of the tube. Then pull the tube full extension and put in spring and top cap. After you get the tube back into the triple tree and it partially tightened then put on the big top cap, tighten, then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower tree. Then do the other side.
I bought a tool on ebay that was identical to the tool in the manual for installing the fork seals. Was pretty low priced and much more efficient and no chance of damaging anything with it. Works on the slide hammer principle, but its one piece.
Pretty much have to remove the fork assembly, one side at a time, to replace the lower. I made a clamp that looks like the one in the manual so I could chuck the clamp in the vise to make it easier. Putting back on the spring retaining top cap is much easier if you have the fork tube mounted that way also.
The manual tells you the process for putting in the oil, it requires the spring to be out and fork tube collapsed and you fill the tube to a certain distance below the top of the tube. Then pull the tube full extension and put in spring and top cap. After you get the tube back into the triple tree and it partially tightened then put on the big top cap, tighten, then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower tree. Then do the other side.
I bought a tool on ebay that was identical to the tool in the manual for installing the fork seals. Was pretty low priced and much more efficient and no chance of damaging anything with it. Works on the slide hammer principle, but its one piece.
Thanks Man, it is in fact a 6mm socket head bolt that goes in the bottom. I also have a fork seal setting tool I bought on E-Bay last year knowing I'd need it one day. The thing was $30.00......... it 2 pieces and goes over the fork upper, made really well........ Thanks for info
Hope this helps.....
Scroll down and watch Amy do the install
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage1.html
Scroll down and watch Amy do the install
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage1.html
Last edited by sanman4ever; Nov 29, 2014 at 08:26 AM.
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From: Farmingdale, New York
Well, job is all done. it was easier than I thought it would be. 2 things gave me a problem and they were that ignition switch was a pain and screwing the fork caps back on with the spring(press hard)otherwise it was a good go at it............. thanks for all the reply's and help fellas.............. I now have a nice new chrome front end that looks great(more **** to shine now though)The gentleman I bought the fork lowers off of was kind enough to give me a set of axle nut covers for free, I would like to give them to a member here as I already have a set. if anyone is interested in them pm me and I'll send them out to you. just paying it forward that's all. this place is great and has helped me tremendously...................... ride safe Men.
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From: Farmingdale, New York
No I didn't, I had the gun at the ready but they came out with a jolt with a long 3/8 ratchet and of course a long allen socket(6 incher)I was happy about that part. I put the new ones back in and torqued them to 200 inch pounds with BLUE locktite not RED like harley does........