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Purchased my 2010 Ultra new and now have 32,000 miles. Had brake recall done, replaced battery once and had to replace both highway lamp bulbs. Other than that just tires, fluids and brake pads. Thinking about shocks but haven't done them yet.
Bought my 2010 new. Five years and 40,000 miles later it so still with me. I had all the recalls done, put in SE255's, V&H Power Duals, Monster Rounds etc. Only things I've had done are stator replaced as the plug was leaking along with a leak on the right side of the tranny, had the clutch basket retaining nut back off and the radio replaced. I'm on my third battery (the Arizona heat cooks them every couple of years) and on my third set of tires. Otherwise it's a great bike!
My 2010 rear brake switch lasted until about 21000 miles then it started sticking. I got rid of the stock header (along with the cat) early-on so there were no immediate heat issues to damage the rear brake switch. I knew about the recall but based on what I just told you I ignored it. I did buy a replacement switch and kept it in the parts box until mine went out. Performing all my own maintenance since day one, I changed it in the garage and bled the rear brakes just to be sure the air was out of the line. It's a fair bet that there will always be air introduced into the line where this switch is unscrewed and then re-installed. It's really unavoidable. That air needs to be forced out of the system and some shops skip that step, so many owners complain of a "soft" rear brake pedal after a switch replacement by the dealer and then have to go back and get the bleed. The shop sheet instructs the tech to perform a rear brake bleed so be sure and ask if that was done.
Another minor issue is the two bottom-most bolts on the transmission cover that also serve to secure the header bracket. These two bolts are notorious for vibrating loose and creating a transmission fluid leak. Here's a borrowed photo of where they are located:
Photo courtesy of forum member 2wheelin
If loose, you can re-tighten them with an extended ball-end Allen. Can't remember the size. If you ever remove the header for any reason, then remove the stock and replace with some grade 8 bolts using a lock washer and red locktite. They won't vibrate loose after that.
Do yourself a favor and spring for the HD service manual for the 2010. I also have and recommend the electrical diagnostic manual and the parts manual. All three have saved my *** at one time or another.
Note: The DVDs you see on Ebay claiming "HD Service Manuals" are illegal copies of the real deal hard copy. Don't support the dicks selling them.. they are nothing but sorry *** thieves.
Absolutely love mine - at 30k. Everyone addressed the most common issues. Three biggest for me was installing a SE compensator (Weak point in the bike). (Couple hour job). It used to have a loud shift clunk and when starting would often bang loudly. Gone now.
Second was installing a PC-V ECM from fuel moto. Has a canned map but works very well for me. Really made the bike run well and took car of the factory lean condition these bikes are known for. (Also a source for heat)
Last was the external oil cooler made a huge enough difference in performance and heat I did not feel the need for de-catting it.
Absolutely love mine - at 30k. Everyone addressed the most common issues. Three biggest for me was installing a SE compensator (Weak point in the bike). (Couple hour job). It used to have a loud shift clunk and when starting would often bang loudly. Gone now.
Easy Cruiser...what is the SE compensator? I always thought mine clunks into first pretty hard. Dealer told me it was normal. Is this what you fixed? Can you give me some detail?
Easy Cruiser...what is the SE compensator? I always thought mine clunks into first pretty hard. Dealer told me it was normal. Is this what you fixed? Can you give me some detail?
Thanks!
Enjoy Guys
Thanks for the compliment.
The compensator is the mechanism that absorbs the shock load of the engine through the primary chain to the starter and transmission. (You can't have the engine directly coupled to both something would twist under the load) The SE version/spring set up is a beefed up version of that compensator. Mine would bang (pre mature dis-engaging) when starting and bang when shifting. The starting banging was especially loud. Both are now gone.
I tried to find the original thread on changing it but it must be gone now. This one is on a slightly different topic but has good pics:
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
