exhaust installation problem...help?
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 1
From: Houston
exhaust installation problem...help?
I finally got around to installing my Rush true duals.
I ran into an allignment problem putting the new pipes on and wanted to see if anyone got it figured out. I followed the directions and assembled everything without tightening however, when I tighten everything down, the rear pipe ends up with the right muffler closer to the swingarm than I would like and the front pipe is right up against one of the bolts of the primary cover and interferes with the top of thr brake pedal. I went through several loosen/tighten cycles but I cant seem to make any headway.
I also noticed how loose the header bolts were. I don't know if that's normal, but they were VERY easy to turn. I also noticed that while the stock header was tapered at the cylinder, the Rush header was not...hope that doesn't make a difference.
Anyway, if you have some experience getting the pipes to line up, let me know. I'd appreciate it.
I ran into an allignment problem putting the new pipes on and wanted to see if anyone got it figured out. I followed the directions and assembled everything without tightening however, when I tighten everything down, the rear pipe ends up with the right muffler closer to the swingarm than I would like and the front pipe is right up against one of the bolts of the primary cover and interferes with the top of thr brake pedal. I went through several loosen/tighten cycles but I cant seem to make any headway.
I also noticed how loose the header bolts were. I don't know if that's normal, but they were VERY easy to turn. I also noticed that while the stock header was tapered at the cylinder, the Rush header was not...hope that doesn't make a difference.
Anyway, if you have some experience getting the pipes to line up, let me know. I'd appreciate it.
Last edited by blarg; Jan 18, 2015 at 07:54 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
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I know that the exhaust flange bolts need to be torqued down and then checked periodically as they will loosen up.
Also, different pipes use different exhaust gaskets - when I took my stock pipes off they had the tapered gaskets but when I installed a set of V&H and my current Basanni's - they took the flat gaskets.
Hope that answers a few of your questions.
PS - you may want to list the year, make, model of bike your trying to install the pipes on to help with your information seeking about fitment....
Also, different pipes use different exhaust gaskets - when I took my stock pipes off they had the tapered gaskets but when I installed a set of V&H and my current Basanni's - they took the flat gaskets.
Hope that answers a few of your questions.
PS - you may want to list the year, make, model of bike your trying to install the pipes on to help with your information seeking about fitment....
I've never installed this particular exhaust, but it has been my experience that twisting one pipe inside the other, even a little bit, can make for quite a bit of side to side or up and down movement of the pipe I twisted as well as everything from that pipe on back.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 1
From: Houston
it's a 2012 RKC. There's very few miles on it so I left the stock gaskets (they looked new). I'll have to ask Rush tomorrow if stock gaskets are ok. The flange is definitely a different shape. I did get a couple of copper gaskets (look like a round copper band) but I didn't use them since the stock ones were in good shape. Maybe I need to.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,044
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Always change the gaskets - it's an inexpensive expense - the fitment problem you might be having might be due to the gaskets - you said your last exhaust bolts were loose - they might "look" okay - but might not "be" okay...
Always start with the simple things first....
Always start with the simple things first....
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 1
From: Houston
the gaskets I got don't look like the stock ones. the stock ones look like a flat band about the same width as the exhaust port. the new ones are round and much less wide than thr exhaust port. they're still ok to use, right? just a different style? looks like the header would go into the port a lot more than with the stock gasket. in fact I'm not sure the flange was going in at all...maybe that's the problem now that I think about it. I'll have to give that a go...hopefully it doesn't take me till next weekend before I can try again.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: sand mountain Alabama
It is really simple to know which type of gasket to use. Look at the end of the header going into the head. If it is flat no tapper on the end a SE flat gasket is needed. If it is tapered at the end, there isn't much taper-more like being rounded more, then the tapered gasket will work.
All the new Bassani exhaust flanges are able to use both type of gaskets, SE flat and taper.
I prefer taper myself, they seal better. Least wise for me.
From your description I suggest to check to make sure the flanges are lined up properly. you can get em off and the flange studs will still fit but the pipe will be off center. They loosen quickly in most cases. Double check for leaks. If it is leaking you could be offset. It is rare this can happen but it does at times. I ended up with a broke header once because of it. It was not noticeable and never leaked.
All the new Bassani exhaust flanges are able to use both type of gaskets, SE flat and taper.
I prefer taper myself, they seal better. Least wise for me.
From your description I suggest to check to make sure the flanges are lined up properly. you can get em off and the flange studs will still fit but the pipe will be off center. They loosen quickly in most cases. Double check for leaks. If it is leaking you could be offset. It is rare this can happen but it does at times. I ended up with a broke header once because of it. It was not noticeable and never leaked.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 505
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From: Houston
made a call to Rush yesterday and they said that the OEM gasket (which was the wide, connical, mesh type may not work with their pipe, especially if it had already been crushed down for a different shaped pipe and suggested the other (James gasket) type. Fortunately that's what I already bought so next time I have some daylight (probably this coming weekend) I'll give that a shot.
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 505
Likes: 1
From: Houston
I took another whack at it this weekend with similar results. I did replace the gaskets, and it may have made a little difference because the front pipe isn't rubbing on the primary cover bolts anymore, but no matter how much a move it around, as soon as I tighten the flange bolts (not torque wrench tight, just a little tighter than "snug" so the pipe has to seat where it's going to and stop moving around) it still hangs on the top of the brake pedal linkage. the rear pipe looks like it's probably ok, but I'm not sure how much the swingarm may travel if I hit a bump and may contact the muffler.
Here are some pictures. Is it possible that I just got an odd set of pipes?
Here are some pictures. Is it possible that I just got an odd set of pipes?
Please give our office a call to speak with a tech. Most of the time it's just an adjustment issue. Our techs can work with you to determine if it's that or an issue with the pipe. I looked at the pictures but it's difficult to determine exactly what's going on.
Sometimes the clamp on the crossover section will move up when the nut it tightened. That's a pretty common adjustment issue to check. If it's not that I recommend calling to speak with a tech.
Ryan
Sometimes the clamp on the crossover section will move up when the nut it tightened. That's a pretty common adjustment issue to check. If it's not that I recommend calling to speak with a tech.
Ryan