Protect a rusting fender
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From: Cumbria in the UK
Protect a rusting fender
Replacing my rear fender on an Ultra.
2009 model under 10,000 miles and not religious about cleaning, but not terrible, even so I am astounded how rusty the old fender is at either end.
The other problems I found were the threaded pin that supports the saddlebag bracket and the retainer/nut that holds the rear light on were very rusted.
Any advice about how to protect my new fender and bolts/nuts.
Bothered if I try and use stuff like ACF 50 is getting it on the tyre.
Thanks in advance
Jon
2009 model under 10,000 miles and not religious about cleaning, but not terrible, even so I am astounded how rusty the old fender is at either end.
The other problems I found were the threaded pin that supports the saddlebag bracket and the retainer/nut that holds the rear light on were very rusted.
Any advice about how to protect my new fender and bolts/nuts.
Bothered if I try and use stuff like ACF 50 is getting it on the tyre.
Thanks in advance
Jon
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
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From: Santa Clarita
In my opinion, preventing rust on sheet metal is all about the preparation of the surface prior to painting. If your new fender is in the white...ie bare metal...begin the process by using a self-etching primer. Two coats of this primer should be sufficient, as you will want to avoid over-building the paint. When that flashes, probably in 20 minutes or so, two to three coats of high build primer, either polyester or epoxy, whatever your preference is, then continue on with your steps toward color coat and clear.
All of this assumes you are using siphon or HVLP equipment. If you are going to use rattle cans, you aren't really serious about preventing rust! If you are going to repair the fender you already have, it's just a matter of stripping it down to bare metal, then on the rusty spots, use a rust converter. The best of these I've ever used was Fertan, and it's still available, and they have a website. What it does is attack the rusty areas, convert it to a dust, then you apply water to it several times day so it will reactivate and continue converting. Excellent stuff. There are other products on the market, but I've never had the confidence in it like I do with Fertan.
All of this assumes you are using siphon or HVLP equipment. If you are going to use rattle cans, you aren't really serious about preventing rust! If you are going to repair the fender you already have, it's just a matter of stripping it down to bare metal, then on the rusty spots, use a rust converter. The best of these I've ever used was Fertan, and it's still available, and they have a website. What it does is attack the rusty areas, convert it to a dust, then you apply water to it several times day so it will reactivate and continue converting. Excellent stuff. There are other products on the market, but I've never had the confidence in it like I do with Fertan.
Last edited by Veekness; Feb 1, 2015 at 11:31 AM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Santa Clarita
Many people would advise you to go out and apply common undercoating. Most of the products that are available as common undercoating are actually porous! I've used it mostly for sound deadening and rock protection. Nothing protects against rust like a good paint job. I've also used POR-15 with good results, but in several cases where I've used it, it doesn't like to attach to good metal...but it does love rusty or rotted metal! But there are several POR-15 products out there that you can investigate. Expensive, but properly used, good stuff.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Cumbria in the UK
Many people would advise you to go out and apply common undercoating. Most of the products that are available as common undercoating are actually porous! I've used it mostly for sound deadening and rock protection. Nothing protects against rust like a good paint job. I've also used POR-15 with good results, but in several cases where I've used it, it doesn't like to attach to good metal...but it does love rusty or rotted metal! But there are several POR-15 products out there that you can investigate. Expensive, but properly used, good stuff.
Jon
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 646
From: Santa Clarita
But I like the idea of repainting your old fender with the suggestions I've trotted out. When the new one goes bad, slap on the one you've recoated and keep riding! Good luck to ya, sir!
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From: Cumbria in the UK
Good idea. The climate where you live just might make keeping something rust free impossible. Here in California, we used to be able to tell when somebody lived at or near the ocean by the rottiness of their automobile. Technology has improved, so it's not that easy, but if you live in a rainy climate within a mile or so of the ocean, this may be a never ending problem. Also, salt on the road in the winter...if you're inclined to ride then...would exacerbate the problem.
But I like the idea of repainting your old fender with the suggestions I've trotted out. When the new one goes bad, slap on the one you've recoated and keep riding! Good luck to ya, sir!
But I like the idea of repainting your old fender with the suggestions I've trotted out. When the new one goes bad, slap on the one you've recoated and keep riding! Good luck to ya, sir!
Jon
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