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Does any one know if you can make it so that both the top and the bottom lights come on when you put on the high beam? I think this would solve a lot of the issues people have with this light.
Had the same idea! A friend of mine decided to be the guinea pig as far as which bike we were going to try. Needless to say it doesn't work. There must be a diode inside the light itself that won't let both hi and low on at the same time. I think it's foolish, both on at same draws less amperage than the stock halogen on high beam...... go figure?
Not without cracking the seal and messing with the internal wiring. That would be an awfully expensive experiment if it goes wrong, plus how easily will it be to reseal if it does work? I chose to go with the JW Speaker (they make H-D's) Evolution 2 with redesigned optics. The low beam projector is a bit larger and there are now 2 additional "d" shaped side reflectors. I bet you could easily sell the Daymaker for what the new JW would cost. Worst case scenario, you have the newest design that may solve the issue. If not, well, you have a brand new headlight with a fresh warranty...
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but there are two hot lines to the headlight, a high beam and a low beam line. Seems to me if you want to have both on at the same time a jumper wire between the high beam hot line to the low beam hot line will allow the two to be on at the same time. Unfortunately they'll both be on when either is selected. However, a properly inserted diode in the jumper wire will ensure the voltage can only go to the low beam when the high beam is selected and not to the high beam when the low beam is selected.
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but there are two hot lines to the headlight, a high beam and a low beam line. Seems to me if you want to have both on at the same time a jumper wire between the high beam hot line to the low beam hot line will allow the two to be on at the same time. Unfortunately they'll both be on when either is selected. However, a properly inserted diode in the jumper wire will ensure the voltage can only go to the low beam when the high beam is selected and not to the high beam when the low beam is selected.
I've done exactly that with the headlights on a Chevy truck before - worked great. I also wonder whether it would work in this case...
If you figure out how, I would highly advise against it as it's probably a heat issue. I work in the lighting industry, 25+ years now and have been following the LED trend closely since about 2000. LEDs while amzingly bright are very difficult to keep cool. Many Good LEDs (Cree, Nichia, etc) are about 120+ delivered lumens per watt. For comparison a 60w/800 lumen house bulb is about 13-15 LPW. That's a lot of heat in a small package, and why you see the aluminum cooling fins on the back of the Daymaker and similar headlights. If they get too hot they will prematurely fail, or it will simply shut itself off via a thermal protection circuit untill you turn it off and it comes down in temperature.
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but there are two hot lines to the headlight, a high beam and a low beam line. Seems to me if you want to have both on at the same time a jumper wire between the high beam hot line to the low beam hot line will allow the two to be on at the same time. Unfortunately they'll both be on when either is selected. However, a properly inserted diode in the jumper wire will ensure the voltage can only go to the low beam when the high beam is selected and not to the high beam when the low beam is selected.
That was my thought exactly. It won't work the way they're internally wired!
I'm also going to assume they are built to function that way to comply with DOT regulations. I'm guessing that they would only be legal "for off-road use only" if both were on because of the lumens. To me it still wouldn't be worth the electrical and potential legal risk.
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