The 103 heads bolt on? That would be a good mod. What cams sore suggested for the older bikes like 07? And will 103 heads bolt on or should I p&p my stock heads? I do p&p so that's an easy option for me

 

I went with the SE 254e cams--major difference, especially in low end torque, and I like SE because I know everything will fit correctly & work well. You could go with 255s, but there can be starting issues & kickback, and heat issues. Same bottom end, but drops off when you get in the revs. I feel the 254e is the best all-around cam out there.

 

I don't plan on doing a ton of engine work so the se254 may be my best bet.you don happen to have a dyno graph or a graph vs stock do you? When they drop off does it kind of fall on its face or does it still pull decent just not like it does in the bottom?

 

I too have 96ci motor with Andrews 48 cams. Not to hijack the thread, but can you tell more about the bypass spring? My exhaust and valve train got noticeably louder after cam upgrade.
Do you have to pull cams back out to replace the spring? Been so long since I did this I dont even remember seeing a spring in there. ??? TIA

 

I have the Axtell bypass spring. Increases oil PSI as others have mentioned. The CAM support plate has to be pulled. There's a roll pin you push out and the new assembly, which is just a sleeve and a spring. Then replace the roll pin.

 

Just finished the Andrews 48 in my '07 SG ... Major difference. Still running the "Stock" (for this cam combo) dyna jet tune for my PV ... but will get it tuned. Can't say anything about the mileage yet. While there is certainly no replacement for displacement, pumping a stock motor too much can cause big issues. Used to work in the service dept of a dealership, and saw way too many "Scissored" flywheels to want to go that far with out welding or pinning the flywheels ... MAJOR $$$$$ Start with a good set of cams, and pick one with a look to the future - should you decide to go bigger later.

 

I have a 2008 with 96cu. in. and wanted more low end grunt as well. Since I ride 2 up a lot I just needed more roll on power so my local indep. mechanic suggested a set of Woods TW-222 cams and those along with a K&N air filter, a set of good head pipes/mufflers and a programmable tune made a world of difference for me. Just my 2 cents since you asked for suggestions.

 

Yes, the 103 heads are direct bolt-on. I used my same push rods and lifters also. What I like about the 54's is the exhaust noise doesn't go up and it idles smoother than when stock. Performance is no comparison to the stock bike.

 

Putting more aggressive camshafts into an engine is an excellent way to increase power. Due to EPA guidelines, the manufacturers are forced to put less aggressive cams, exhaust and air intakes on newer engines made in the U.S.A.

Before you decide on your cam choice you should sit down and decide what kind of a rider you are. Are you a touring guy who likes to get on the open road, set the cruise on 70 mph and ride for hours on end @ 2800 rpm?

Maybe you are a person who likes to take short hops around town and is not adverse to engaging in the occasional contest of speed and acceleration.

Perhaps you are one of those guys who wants an all out speed racer. You can't stand it when one of your buddies smokes your hinny between stop lights. You bounce off your rev limiter every time you go out. You need torque to get you out of the hole and horsepower to take you through the traps @ 100 mph plus. Your cam duration and lift will be a lot different than the touring rider. If you get the wrong cam grind you are not going to be a happy rider.

Pick a cam grind that suits your driving style. The touring guy does not need or want a cam that makes peak torque starting at 4500 rpm. The touring rider probably needs a cam that starts torqueing it up in the 2000-4000 rpm range because that is the range he rides in. He wants to get on the highway with a heavy bike, hit 70-75 mph quickly, and stay there. If he has to pass another vehicle he doesn't want to have to shift down to 5th gear to make it happen either. Another thing that is important to the touring rider is his gasoline mileage. You don't need an engine that drinks fuel like a Baldwin locomotive. A fairly aggressive touring cam will probably deliver somewhere in the neighborhood of 38-42 mpg depending on your right hand.

There is no shortage of cam grinders/manufacturers out there, so it is easy to purchase a cam that is complementary to your riding style. Talk it over with your engine builder before you decide.

 

Now that makes some sense. I just never knew how much of this stuff I want, ( err need).