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Apes and Full Lock Turns

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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 11:57 PM
  #1  
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Default Apes and Full Lock Turns

I put 14" KST Bars on my SG, as this is my first touring bike, I'm not really very adept at slow speed close quarter turns... I practice when I can, and in April I'm taking a Slow Speed class, the Civillian Top Gun..

My concern is that maybe the 14's were a bad idea in that General direction, I can control a slow speed turn, but nowhere approaching full lock, and while that may just be practice and more practice, I wondered how the rest of you fare with Apes in Full Lock turns should you ever find yourselves in that situation, whether on purpose or by necessity?

KSTs are pretty wide, I could see a stock width apes being easier to handle. What do you think? I'm actually considering dropping mine to 12's
 

Last edited by Onedef1; Mar 11, 2015 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 12:03 AM
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Full lock is full lock no matter what bars you have. It's all about the balance on the bike while you're in full lock.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 03:16 AM
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I find that I need speed to go full lock even with stock bars. Like let's say 10MPH and above. A section of my driveway is a 24x24 concrete pad and I have practiced figure 8's and U-Turns inside it but it ain't pretty at 5MPH and slower...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by harleyultra1969
Full lock is full lock no matter what bars you have.
True.

It's all about the balance on the bike while you're in full lock.
And rear-brake trail braking while you're on the gas to keep the bike moving forward in a positive control fashion. And LOOKING where you want to be, NOT where you think you're gonna crash or gonna hit. "Look down, hit the ground" "Look there, get there" Its feels un-natural at first, but it really works!

Still...if you've got a short wing-span, apes will make it more difficult to finesse the throttle when making a left hook cuz you're gonna have to stretch your right arm out waaaaaay out there while trying to finesse the throttle application and you might not be able to sit upright and turn your head to LOOK exactly where you want to go cuz that's exactly what you need to do. Right hooks are easier cuz the throttle grip will be in your lap and you'll be able to sit upright and turn your head to LOOK where you want to go.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 04:42 AM
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Thanks for the post!

...after a long cold winter in Michigan just started a new Bar install myself -
choice is going 12" Mayhem with thoughts of 4teens (ordering this week)
you got me thinking

NOTE TO SELF - slow speed close quarter turning practice right after Ape install
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:23 AM
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Other then looking where you want to go. When I took my riding class many moons ago they taught us to shift our weight in the opposite direction.. Look left turn left shift weight to the right.. Works for me..
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Onedef1
My concern is that maybe the 14's were a bad idea in that General direction, I can control a slow speed turn, but nowhere approaching full lock, and while that may just be practice and more practice, I wondered how the rest of you fare with Apes in Full Lock turns should you ever find yourselves in that situation, whether on purpose or by necessity?

KSTs are pretty wide, I could see a stock width apes being easier to handle. What do you think? I'm actually considering dropping mine to 12's
Practice isn't going to make your arms longer. If you're really reaching to get to full lock, either pull the bars back some or get shorter bars. Having to move forward or to one side to accomplish this is not going to help your balance or throttle / clutch control at slow speed.

You're smart to consider function over form. There are an awful lot of monkey bars out there that the rider couldn't get to full lock without standing on the floorboards or sitting on the tank. If you want to be proficient it sounds like you're getting new bars.

Happy Motoring!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:34 AM
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Oh I'm 6'3" and have a decent wingspan; but at full lock one side is jammed close and the other, is a reach. Not an overreach by by any means but enough to make me question the feasibility of total control. I did think about pulling the bars towards me some more, I may try that; I already have 12's on the way, though. I understand clutch feathering and trail braking and I have no issues with that, my question was more related to how someone who's already a good slow speed turner feels about the practicality of apes in close quarters.

With a 120R onboard, I'd much rather have full control of the throttle at full extension than be executing full lock burnouts by accident, see? Lol although that would be cool. Ha! I should note that being deaf, my balance is already compromised somewhat. Practice does get you there, but it's a little harder for me, it takes a little more concentration and mental exercise than it does others to achieve balance in a lot of practical applications. I couldn't pass a roadside sobriety test in the dark in the middle of the night even dead sober. So putting the bike together in a way that helps rather than hinders my technique is important to me.
 

Last edited by Onedef1; Mar 11, 2015 at 06:50 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:43 AM
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I went with 10" LA chopper bagger bars, they are not extremely wide like some out there. They also have a nice angled bend that brings them back toward you. It's all personal preference so check them all out pretty good before buying if you can. By the way I am 5'9" and the 10s are really comfortable for me, hands are positioned between elbows and shoulders.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by harleyultra1969
Full lock is full lock no matter what bars you have. It's all about the balance on the bike while you're in full lock.
Full lock with wide/tall bars is nothing like full lock with stock bars. Much greater reach needed to properly control the bike.

OP: If you can't hold both grips while sitting straight up in the seat at full lock, you need shorter/narrow bars...
 
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