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Looks like I'll leave the 16" out back and just change to 21" up front. Just switch to Michelin Commander II's tires what a difference hope they make one in a 21". Was thinking about installing the Progressive Monotubes too but don't know if I want to lower it any unless it helps with handling
Looks like I'll leave the 16" out back and just change to 21" up front. Just switch to Michelin Commander II's tires what a difference hope they make one in a 21". Was thinking about installing the Progressive Monotubes too but don't know if I want to lower it any unless it helps with handling
-xmen9c that's a good lookin bike-
Thanks!
I would lower it as I personally dont care for the way they ride or look with the front 2.5" higher in front. Of course this all depends on your riding style as well. Good luck and of course, post picks! 😜
Why does the 200 MM tire cause wobble on 18x5.5 rim? I had a 200x55x17 on my RG in the post above and no issues ever. Had the bike at 120 in SD on Rte 212 (didnt stay there long, just wanted to say I did it/make sure the speedo worked on that side.... ). Was really pretty smooth overall even at that speed. Whats so different about 18" vs 17"?
Unfortunately I do not have an answer as to why this happens. My guess is it has to do with the weight of a bagger combined with a bigger than stock wheel on a tire that is a bit wider.
I would lower it as I personally dont care for the way they ride or look with the front 2.5" higher in front. Of course this all depends on your riding style as well. Good luck and of course, post picks! 😜
I agree might look funny if not lowered, How much lower? Drop in springs or monotubes? I just did want the forks to bottom out
I agree might look funny if not lowered, How much lower? Drop in springs or monotubes? I just did want the forks to bottom out
Monotubes for me but lowering springs work also. I went w/2" drop as I figured the bike rose 2.5" at the center of the wheel with the move to 21" from 16" (The center of the wheel moved up 1/2 of that 5" or 2.5") so lowering it 2" brings it back as close to stock ride height as possible with the kit I used (Progressive Monotube Lowering). Still 1/2" higher but that's OK.
This worked for me on my Deluxe. On my SE RG I only dropped it 1" as the move was from 19" to 21".
The bike is not going to sit 2.5" taller. You have to figure half of the height is on top of the axle, the other half on the bottom so the number is smaller than youa have computed. With a 21" you are looking at an extra 1-1.25" of height.
The bike is not going to sit 2.5" taller. You have to figure half of the height is on top of the axle, the other half on the bottom so the number is smaller than youa have computed. With a 21" you are looking at an extra 1-1.25" of height.
Half is on top of the axel, yes. The other half is on the bottom which raises the top. My RG went from 19" to 21" wheel and it rose 1". How can a bike going with a wheel 5" bigger only go up 1"? In theory (have to measure the 16" from ground to axel with the tire on it now and compare that to the 21" with the tire on that). Anything over 2" in difference means in order to get closer to stock ride height, the bike should be lowered 2". Anything less than 2" should go 1" lower.
A 21" tire has a lower profile. Don't measure the wheel, measure the inflated tire height.
Agreed. Just spoke to my installer about this as I had given him instructions to go 2". After reading Hog Pro's post I re-thought that.
We agreed he'd measure the stock front wheel with the tire on it (16") vs the new wheel with the 21" 120/70/21 on it and see what the difference is to the axle. If its 2" or more, then we lower 2". If it's between 1-2" then we go 1" or maybe 1.5" (by modding the other spring - only if its 1.5" or more). Goal was to get back as close to stock ride height as possible. I may just accept the .50" increase in front too as I doubt I'll notice that all that much.
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