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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 06:52 PM
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Hello , i am new here,
i have a 2010 ultra classic , lately bought pv and tune the bike with new air cleaner kit. everything was good , from time to time i got stalling at high speed around 60mph but that was right after the snow , so i thoght it may be just gas , filled up gas and everything good till today. i went for ride , and it idle fine,, as i put in first gear and it start slugish like it want to die , give it more throtle and it keep staling in all gear even at high speed , stopped at gas fill up with new fresh gas, i did rodeit yesterday and put about 2 g of 93 gas, it ran fine except one it did stall at 60 mph.
anyway engine light came on after , did ride for about 60 miles and it stall all the way . came back hook up the pv to read the code and it came out with this:

ECM:P0113 HIST
IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
ECM:P0505 HIST
Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI

my question is where is the iat sensor located ? and if i replace it, will it fix both errors ? is there a way to check it?

I do have service book but there is no iat sensor. thanks for the help
 
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 06:59 PM
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https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...s-at-idle.html
 
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 07:49 PM
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thank you for reply, may try to spray some carb cleaner and see what happen .
 
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Good luck, keep us posted.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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well, I did spray some carb cleaner on map sensor , coudnt find the iat sensor. went for short ride and from first gear it jerk and sputter couldn't make 1/2 mile , took it back to garage .
I am not sure if the twist grip sensor could do that since I just change the handlebar, could it?
also put the pv and took gauge to test the Engine temp sensor the Iat and the map sensor as voltage . took video but couldn't load it , as I am in idle for about 5 mn, the map sensor keep jumping from 1.2v to 3.8 v . shouldn't be steady if it is in idle , the IAT sensor was almost steady at about 2.51 v , it varie by 0.01 to 0.02 v while the et sensor was steady too.
going to order the electrical book tom , I hope they have in stock.
thanks
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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I'd take it to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic on it. Then you can decide if you want to replace what's broken or let them do it while its there.

18 months ago and 400 miles from home, I developed a stutter / stall situation. Local dealer plugged it in and told me that I needed a throttle position sensor. They didn't have one in stock (older bike,) but I had one at home and managed to limp it back. Best $65 I've spent having them solve what was wrong for me.
 

Last edited by Stiggy; Apr 12, 2015 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
I'd take it to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic on it. Then you can decide if you want to replace what's broken or let them do it while its there.

18 months ago and 400 miles from home, I developed a stutter / stall situation. Local dealer plugged it in and told me that I needed a throttle position sensor. They didn't have one in stock (older bike,) but I had one at home and managed to limp it back. Best $65 I've spent having them solve what was wrong for me.


I have to uhaul itto them, I cant ride bike like that at all . thanks for help.may end up buying new throttle wire and put it and see if it make difference. I know it is around $104 plus tax
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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Not sure what to make of your map sensor readings. Note that there are like four wires there. One set is for intake temp and the other for air velocity.

When your twist grip sensor goes out it will throw several very obvious codes centered around the grip sensors themselves and with titles like "sensor correlation error" etc.
It will also show a code for reduced power mode which pretty much means you can't get the bike over 1500 rpm or something. The grip sensor is probably not your problem...

Your bike does not have an IAC and it's weird that it's throwing those codes.
It sounds like you have a problem with your intake/induction module which with the help of the ECM and all the other sensors, does the job of the older style IAC.

To be sure, I'd take it in, but one thing to try right away is to disconnect and reconnect the connector going to the servo on the throttle body.
Corrosion in that connector does all kinds of funny stuff. Easy to check anyway...
 

Last edited by lp; Apr 12, 2015 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hdultra2010
I have to uhaul itto them, I cant ride bike like that at all . thanks for help.may end up buying new throttle wire and put it and see if it make difference. I know it is around $104 plus tax
Don't just throw money at it. If you're wrong, you just burned up a lot of money. (A Uhaul trailer won't cost you $104.)

Call the Dealer and ask what they'd charge to come and get it.(?)
 
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
Don't just throw money at it. If you're wrong, you just burned up a lot of money. (A Uhaul trailer won't cost you $104.)

Call the Dealer and ask what they'd charge to come and get it.(?)
thanks, i am nt just going to buy until am sure it is the problem , it just that i think it is coming from there since it is the last thing that i did to the bike and load new map (from basic autotune).
I just took off the grip sensor and it was good clean it with electircal cleaner and put diegrease on green connector , test the jumper wire with ohm and everyone was working, find that a litle heat shrink was off i think where they come out of the hole of handlebar, the wire was rubbing there but the wire was good though.
i am waiting on my new bar to come to put it in and see what happen, ordered the electrical book today , will be here about a week. when i get her back will call the dealer and see how much they will charge me for pick up and diagnose, it may be just simple that i ignored or something you know .
 
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