2014 FLHR Mid Frequency Hum leaned over
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 641
Likes: 30
From: Clovis, CA
2014 FLHR Mid Frequency Hum leaned over
First Harley, 8500 miles on a 2014 RK.
Has developed a mid frequency hum when I start to lean it over. Mostly when leaning left. I've heard it a few times just as I begin to lean the bike to the right in a mid speed turn, but most pronounced leaning left. Can't hear it 100% of the time, but I'd say after being warmed up, in the twists, I can just start to hear it come on a bit. It's almost like my tires have very small ribs on the left side of them that as I lean the bike over they contact the road, but the tires are the stock Dunlops and still have tread to go with no real defects noticed upon inspection. I suppose it could be drive belt related as well. The frequency seems to match up with what I would expect the drive belt teeth to sound like if I were dragging them across something at 40-50 mph or the equivalent of the current bike speed. Also, wheels are stock spokes and appear normal upon inspection.
Anybody got a lead for me on what this could be?
Has developed a mid frequency hum when I start to lean it over. Mostly when leaning left. I've heard it a few times just as I begin to lean the bike to the right in a mid speed turn, but most pronounced leaning left. Can't hear it 100% of the time, but I'd say after being warmed up, in the twists, I can just start to hear it come on a bit. It's almost like my tires have very small ribs on the left side of them that as I lean the bike over they contact the road, but the tires are the stock Dunlops and still have tread to go with no real defects noticed upon inspection. I suppose it could be drive belt related as well. The frequency seems to match up with what I would expect the drive belt teeth to sound like if I were dragging them across something at 40-50 mph or the equivalent of the current bike speed. Also, wheels are stock spokes and appear normal upon inspection.
Anybody got a lead for me on what this could be?
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 17
From: Mid West
You will find slight cupping to the tread lines on both tires, will become more pronounced as front develops more cupping. Will find this more often on rides that use the slab and less twisty roads where the tread can wear more across the center causing the cupping along the edge tread.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 519
Likes: 83
From: NC
I agree with the others, it's the tires. I have the stock Dunlops that are about 2000 miles before replacement, and they hum in curves. Just to be safe, I'll have the wheel bearings checked at tire replacement.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 641
Likes: 30
From: Clovis, CA
Ok, thanks. I withheld some info to be sure I got non biased info from you guys. I suspected the tires were the culprit and also suspected that I just couldn't see the cupping on the side of the tire. So I put about 500 miles in the twists the last week or so and it seems to have reduced the hum quite a bit.
This whole thing seems to be most pronounced after the wife and I have ridden 2 up on pretty straight highways and THEN I go ride in the twists.
Thanks for the info. And Yes, I'll have wheel bearings checked just for good measure.
This whole thing seems to be most pronounced after the wife and I have ridden 2 up on pretty straight highways and THEN I go ride in the twists.
Thanks for the info. And Yes, I'll have wheel bearings checked just for good measure.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 14,438
Likes: 2,421
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
OP, the end of last year mine started doing that as well. Scared me too. Just had it inspected and I will need tires in in a 1000 or so. I have 10k on them now. Whats your mileage #?
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
From: Hot Springs, AR
You can run a belt sander over the high spots of the cupping and get rid of most of the noise. It's almost like having a new tire. I do it and haven't had any problems with throwing off the balancing.
The wear makes the front part of the tread block stand higher than the rear - kind of like a tooth on a circular saw. The center part of the tread is OK so you skip that. Just work the "corners" and knock off the high spots. Hold the sander at about 45 degrees and let it spin the tire backward. You control everything by how hard you press the sander and the angle. Works excellently, I promise.
The wear makes the front part of the tread block stand higher than the rear - kind of like a tooth on a circular saw. The center part of the tread is OK so you skip that. Just work the "corners" and knock off the high spots. Hold the sander at about 45 degrees and let it spin the tire backward. You control everything by how hard you press the sander and the angle. Works excellently, I promise.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 117
From: Southeast NC
mine does exact same thing. around 2k mikes mark started doing it. have 14k now. no issues although i always thought in might be the drive belt hitting the plastic belt guard since the noise is only when leaning to left. i noticed when i tightened my belt to stock specs, it made less of this noise.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
You can run a belt sander over the high spots of the cupping and get rid of most of the noise. It's almost like having a new tire. I do it and haven't had any problems with throwing off the balancing.
The wear makes the front part of the tread block stand higher than the rear - kind of like a tooth on a circular saw. The center part of the tread is OK so you skip that. Just work the "corners" and knock off the high spots. Hold the sander at about 45 degrees and let it spin the tire backward. You control everything by how hard you press the sander and the angle. Works excellently, I promise.
The wear makes the front part of the tread block stand higher than the rear - kind of like a tooth on a circular saw. The center part of the tread is OK so you skip that. Just work the "corners" and knock off the high spots. Hold the sander at about 45 degrees and let it spin the tire backward. You control everything by how hard you press the sander and the angle. Works excellently, I promise.
Last edited by bikerlaw; May 2, 2015 at 09:24 PM.