When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok I have a 2012 103 street glide with stage one (v and h 2 into 1, big sucker, se tuner), and now I'm ready for the next stage. I wanted to go with Fuel Moto cams, they are really a great company but is there another way that's better than woods 777. If not that's fine I can buy in pieces, but is there a list of needed things to get the job done? Cams, lifters(are they all roller), push rods,oil pump, cam plate, etc. I like to ride my bike like I stole it so it needs to be bullet proof. I'm trying to squeeze every horsepower and torque I can, I run amsoil and even index my spark plugs. Please help me I would appreciate any advice in this venture. Thank you.
I have the TW-777 cams that came with my 107" BB kit from FuelMoto. I'm having it dyno tuned on 5/5/15, so I can't speak of peak performance yet. But, I can say the 777's scream at 3000 RPM's. I can't wait to get it tuned! I say call FuelMoto and talk to them about what you want. They are a great company.
I put in the TW 222 cams from FM and my bike runs great. Vance & Hines power duals with AC kit and powervision tuner. The push rod kits from FM are easy to install and they are great quality. I asked Jamie about doing lifters but my bike only has 6,500 miles on it so it was not really needed. If you want power from idle to 4500 rpm these are the cams to get.
FM have a good reputation on HDF, as well as being a sponsor. There are other sponsors including Hillside Cycle, all of whom can guide you. You will get best results from your next upgrade IMHO if you buy a package deal from one of them. That will include proven components that are known to work well together. Talking to them on the phone will ensure you get good advice to meet what you want to achieve. If you're anywhere near Minneola there is Doc's Performance Tuning in FLA.
You can save some cash by pulling the stock pushrods out of the top, but it takes a little longer and you'll need a specialty wrench to properly torque the rocker arms back down. You already have the late model cam plate (non spring loaded) so no need for a cam plate. The lifters are indeed roller, I reused mine. The thing about cams is that everyone has one they like, but not all are created equal. A cam good from 3K to 6K rpm wouldn't work for me since I usually cruise at 3K and don't often exceed 4K. Some cam grinds like higher than stock compression.
If you are just doing cams in your 103 without bore, pistons or headwork it is pretty hard to beat Andrews 57s. Ya should replace inner cam bearings (SE are fine), lifters (comp or S&S) and add adjustable pushrods (SE tapered, S&S...). 777 really need compression and headwork.
You can save some cash by pulling the stock pushrods out of the top, but it takes a little longer and you'll need a specialty wrench to properly torque the rocker arms back down. You already have the late model cam plate (non spring loaded) so no need for a cam plate. The lifters are indeed roller, I reused mine. The thing about cams is that everyone has one they like, but not all are created equal. A cam good from 3K to 6K rpm wouldn't work for me since I usually cruise at 3K and don't often exceed 4K. Some cam grinds like higher than stock compression.
I put a 103 kit in my 09 dyna with the SE255. Dynoed out at just over 103 ft lbs just off of idle and smoothly drop to 99 ft lbs at the end of the rpm range. One of the flattest torque curves I have ever seen for any cams. If you want "bullet proof" reuse the stock push rods. I didn't replace the cam bearings or the lifters. While you have the rockers plates off shim the rocker arms. Harley spec is .003-.025 approx. That is a huge range. Mine were at about .019 when I started and about .005 when done. Use shovel head rocker shaft shims and put them on the "return" side. When the push rod goes up it pushes in one direction and when the valve spring is closing it pushes the rocker arm in the other direction. Thats the side you want to put the shims. I forgot which rocker you put the shims on the left and which ones you put on the right. Sorry. You will be the envy of all your friends because you will have the quietest valve train. It is phenomenal how quiet it gets. As for torquing, the biggest thing is do it evenly and slowly with piston at TDC compression stroke and WAIT until you can spin the push rods with your fingers before rotating the engine over. I did the kit at about 8000 miles and traded it in at 36000 miles. Never a problem. And I rode it really freaking hard.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.