Batwing fix help?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Batwing fix help?
Always seems to be something on the old bike that needs updating to something better.
While wiping down the front end I noticed the headlite was leaning outward a bit, took headlite off and found that most of the holes for holding the back pot are history. I have a couple ideas for fixing it but would like to hear from you guys. And please don't say new batwing.
While wiping down the front end I noticed the headlite was leaning outward a bit, took headlite off and found that most of the holes for holding the back pot are history. I have a couple ideas for fixing it but would like to hear from you guys. And please don't say new batwing.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I have thought of that but you just gave me a different idea, maybe better with two rings, one in behind and one in front. I guess the pot doesn`t have to be right up against the original base right
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,519
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From: Vancouver BC
Buy a used old batwing then? Just kidding. Go to the hobby store and buy some brass sheets. With tin snips and some folding and hand forming you could fabricate your own collar or ring. Just drill holes in the appropriate places for your headlight assembly to remount. That, or some soft copper tubing that you split a seam on. Place the seam over your damaged innards and form the tube around its circumference. Flatten the tube to grip the circumference with pliers or a wood block and hammer, re-drill holes where needed.
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; May 11, 2015 at 06:56 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
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From: Indy
Go buy a can of fiber glass resin jelly , cover all of the holes with it, sand/grind it flat , drill your holes again , and you are done, maybe shoot some rattle can black on the worked area.
If you do this, resin jelly is really hard to sand by hand, so don't put a big lump on , and you will need to sand all of the paint with 36 grit paper that you are going to spread jelly on. It works just like body filler add hardener mix then apply.
If you have a grinder with a sand disk that would work much faster.
If you do this, resin jelly is really hard to sand by hand, so don't put a big lump on , and you will need to sand all of the paint with 36 grit paper that you are going to spread jelly on. It works just like body filler add hardener mix then apply.
If you have a grinder with a sand disk that would work much faster.
Last edited by Bill03E; May 11, 2015 at 10:53 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Cedar BC
Who's the savage that dared to use Robertson screws on a vehicle? Unless it was a life and death emergency,he should hang his head in shame...
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Vancouver BC
What's wrong with Robertson's? It was invented as a no-slip screwdriver in which the screw could be held horizontally using only one hand without falling off, something other screwdrivers can't claim. The Fisher Body company which made the car bodies for the Ford Motor Co was one of Robertson's first customers. They used over 700 Robertson screws in the Model T, this was because Henry Ford realized that the Robertson screw saved around 2 hours of labor for each car. Ford tried to get the exclusive license to use and manufacture this product but Robertson said no. Henry F. Phillips of the Phillips screwdriver fame had no such compunction and let Ford have his way with it.
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; May 12, 2015 at 03:02 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Buy a used old batwing then? Just kidding. Go to the hobby store and buy some brass sheets. With tin snips and some folding and hand forming you could fabricate your own collar or ring. Just drill holes in the appropriate places for your headlight assembly to remount. That, or some soft copper tubing that you split a seam on. Place the seam over your damaged innards and form the tube around its circumference. Flatten the tube to grip the circumference with pliers or a wood block and hammer, re-drill holes where needed.