Need Some Help
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,681
Likes: 8,413
From: Utah
When they worked on the fuel lines in Florida did it fix the problem? Is this the same problem?
If you lose combustion in both cyl's you've lost fuel to both or power to both coils
Book Says:
Combustion is detected through the Ion sense.
Failure to detect Combustion at high speed and load means one of the following is true
1- Cyl is truly misfiring
2- There is a lack of continuity in the coil secondary.
The notes say to check for non-OEM plugs and cables, incorrect resistance can F everything up.
Good Luck and remember this is all from a 2015 manual
If you lose combustion in both cyl's you've lost fuel to both or power to both coils
Book Says:
Combustion is detected through the Ion sense.
Failure to detect Combustion at high speed and load means one of the following is true
1- Cyl is truly misfiring
2- There is a lack of continuity in the coil secondary.
The notes say to check for non-OEM plugs and cables, incorrect resistance can F everything up.
Good Luck and remember this is all from a 2015 manual
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 30
From: Maryland near DC
I have no experience with working on this type coil, but have good electrical knowledge, so take that to heart when making a decision on what to do...
Alright, here's the deal. As I posted a few days ago, my buddy's 2004 Road King started skipping on the way home from a ride last weekend. Codes showed no combustion front and rear cylinder.
I suspected pinholes in the fuel line inside the fuel tank but he told me he had that problem in Daytona a couple of years ago. Rossmeyer went into the tank, replaced the fuel line, and I have to assume they replaced the filter at the same time. $500 repair anyway.
Now I'm down to the coil. (The plugs were changed a couple of days ago). Everything I found on Internet, HD Forums, & Youtube searches showed A 2 wire plug or talked about Primary and secondary tests.
Well what I found was a 4 wire plug. I did find that on the primary side I was looking for .5 to .7 ohms, which I was able to find (.4 ohms) on the coil pins 1 & 4.
On the secondary test, I was looking for 5,500 to 7,500 ohms. I found 3.0K ohms between coil pin 2 and the plug wire tower holes ( It varied approx. 100 ohms between the two plug wire tower hole
this appears to be low, the reading is about 1/3 less than expected which would give you a weak spark, BUT what you are looking for is the ratio between the two readings(secondary/primary, in this case it is about a 1000/1 and that appears to be consistent, the low reading may be your meter being off, so you need to take that into consideration...I believe pin #3 that you got no reading from is for the ion sensor, which is giving you the "bad' code and if it weren't for that code I would say the coil is good....unfortunately the best test for a bad coil is to replace it...
[/COLOR]
My question to you is: AM I PROBING THE CORRECT PINS ON THE COIL? These were the only pins I could get a reading on and other than the 3,000 ohms, were in the ballpark. yes
Do I have a bad coil? I don't want to start throwing money at parts until the skipping stops. Any help (at or below a 3rd grade level) is appreciated.
I suspected pinholes in the fuel line inside the fuel tank but he told me he had that problem in Daytona a couple of years ago. Rossmeyer went into the tank, replaced the fuel line, and I have to assume they replaced the filter at the same time. $500 repair anyway.
Now I'm down to the coil. (The plugs were changed a couple of days ago). Everything I found on Internet, HD Forums, & Youtube searches showed A 2 wire plug or talked about Primary and secondary tests.
Well what I found was a 4 wire plug. I did find that on the primary side I was looking for .5 to .7 ohms, which I was able to find (.4 ohms) on the coil pins 1 & 4.
On the secondary test, I was looking for 5,500 to 7,500 ohms. I found 3.0K ohms between coil pin 2 and the plug wire tower holes ( It varied approx. 100 ohms between the two plug wire tower hole
this appears to be low, the reading is about 1/3 less than expected which would give you a weak spark, BUT what you are looking for is the ratio between the two readings(secondary/primary, in this case it is about a 1000/1 and that appears to be consistent, the low reading may be your meter being off, so you need to take that into consideration...I believe pin #3 that you got no reading from is for the ion sensor, which is giving you the "bad' code and if it weren't for that code I would say the coil is good....unfortunately the best test for a bad coil is to replace it...
[/COLOR]
My question to you is: AM I PROBING THE CORRECT PINS ON THE COIL? These were the only pins I could get a reading on and other than the 3,000 ohms, were in the ballpark. yes
Do I have a bad coil? I don't want to start throwing money at parts until the skipping stops. Any help (at or below a 3rd grade level) is appreciated.
Last edited by mrfikser; May 16, 2015 at 11:17 AM. Reason: color change for ease of reading
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truckerdave
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Apr 28, 2013 11:09 AM
