Another compensator question
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Ok, let's do easy first.
1. You didn't say whether or not you have done, or have had done, any engine tuning or modifications. What say ye? A poorly tuned engine will do what you are describing.
2. Check all motor mounts to ensure they are tight.
3. The compensator bolt is the highest torque fastener on your bike. If installed properly, it is installed with red locktite at 140 ft pounds. Screwing around with a wrench on this bolt, especially if you break it loose, destroys the binding action of the locktite. To do it right, buy a new compensator bolt at the dealer, apply locktite, and install the bitch correctly. The service manual will step you through the sequence. Use the metal locking bar too hold the sprocket in place during this procedure. And yes, the spring pack will depress as you reach spec torque. What do you expect them to do?
4. Check for error codes. If there is something wrong in the electricals, there should be a historic code that will give you some idea of the issue at hand.
5. Perform the steering head bearing swing check. If you have a worn steering head bearing, the movement at the front end will amplify these vibration issues.
6. Put bike up on a lift/jack and spin the wheels listening for wheel bearing roar, grinding, and such. The front wheel should spin pretty freely. Worn wheel bearings can contribute to vibrations throughout the bike. If there is a bad wheel bearing, it's likely in the front.
1. You didn't say whether or not you have done, or have had done, any engine tuning or modifications. What say ye? A poorly tuned engine will do what you are describing.
2. Check all motor mounts to ensure they are tight.
3. The compensator bolt is the highest torque fastener on your bike. If installed properly, it is installed with red locktite at 140 ft pounds. Screwing around with a wrench on this bolt, especially if you break it loose, destroys the binding action of the locktite. To do it right, buy a new compensator bolt at the dealer, apply locktite, and install the bitch correctly. The service manual will step you through the sequence. Use the metal locking bar too hold the sprocket in place during this procedure. And yes, the spring pack will depress as you reach spec torque. What do you expect them to do?
4. Check for error codes. If there is something wrong in the electricals, there should be a historic code that will give you some idea of the issue at hand.
5. Perform the steering head bearing swing check. If you have a worn steering head bearing, the movement at the front end will amplify these vibration issues.
6. Put bike up on a lift/jack and spin the wheels listening for wheel bearing roar, grinding, and such. The front wheel should spin pretty freely. Worn wheel bearings can contribute to vibrations throughout the bike. If there is a bad wheel bearing, it's likely in the front.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Sulphur, LA
Problem Solved but not happy
Ok so I haven't had the time to work on the bike and ended up taking it to the Harley shop. Final was compensator springs wore out, apparently this caused a problem with the clutch basket splines (not sure how). So replaced compensator and clutch basket for a total of $1291 and some change. I have used harley oil in the primary and changed it every 5000 miles. The compensator going out at 27,000 miles just doesn't seem right to me, I would think it should last a lot longer than that. This is my 6th harley since 2001 and I've never had a problem like this before. My last Ultra was a 2006, I put over 50,000 miles on it without any problems with the compensator. In anycase thanks for the responses and the help and a word of advise. If you hear the springs in the compensator slapping every time you throttle up, the compensator is bad. Remember this is a 2012 the compensator issues are supposed to be over right!
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chevdude
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May 14, 2016 10:09 AM
