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For the front lever, I used a bolt and a "Nylock" nut. Granted, it's not the snazziest-looking equipment but the nylock nut stays on without worrying about locktite, etc.
I also used nylon "spacers" on the bolts front and rear, probably didn't need them, but I put them on anyway.
For me, function is more important than form:
I can't answer with a direct torque value, but tighten until the heim joint binds...then back off enough to free it up.
'03 UltraClassic. The 3rd shift rod is a charm. The 2nd one was a chrome Kurysomething and it broke after about 10k miles. I replaced the ends with aircraft heims and it has been good until now.
I had the jam nuts to the end of the threads. How do you know it is adjusted correctly? I took it for a test run and it seemed to work fine.
What goes wrong with the stock connectors? They seemed pretty solid.
I know this isn't rocket science, but I would hate to screw something up.
Thanks.
it's adjusted correctly if your shift lever is in a comfortable position for you. kind of a 2 part adjustment. first is by the splines on the lever itself. then the second is by the threads on the shift rod. that is a finer adjustment. moving it one spline can make a huge difference.
what happens to the stock ends is that the ball will come out of the socket resulting in what you saw in the op's picture
it's adjusted correctly if your shift lever is in a comfortable position for you. kind of a 2 part adjustment. first is by the splines on the lever itself. then the second is by the threads on the shift rod. that is a finer adjustment. moving it one spline can make a huge difference.
what happens to the stock ends is that the ball will come out of the socket resulting in what you saw in the op's picture
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