Debating engine upgrades on an 88
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 603
Likes: 14
From: So Texas
Debating engine upgrades on an 88
I've got an '06 FLHT with a stock 88" sitting with 41k miles on it. I know all about the cam chain tensioners so I've already planned on a new SE cam plate and oil pump. Then my mind wandered towards doing cams while I'm in there, then I thought about headwork, then I thought about 95".
I have no intentions of buying a new scooter within the next 4-5 years so I want to get this right. I also understand that since my bike has seen some miles I will be putting stress on other worn parts such as the transmission and clutch. If I do the cams it seems to make sense that I will need to do the rockers and valves as they have been wearing a certain way for 41k miles and if I change that I am destined for trouble.
I don't need to keep up with the 100+" guys, I'm too old for that. However, I would welcome a little more juice on the throttle, especially when passing at highway speeds.
So now I'm thinking about cam plate, cams, and light headwork with rockers and valves. I'd really appreciate some help from people who have been in my dilemma. I want to keep long-term reliability, I'd like to keep my CV carb, and I'd like to keep as much cash in my wallet as possible. Thanks for any help!
I have no intentions of buying a new scooter within the next 4-5 years so I want to get this right. I also understand that since my bike has seen some miles I will be putting stress on other worn parts such as the transmission and clutch. If I do the cams it seems to make sense that I will need to do the rockers and valves as they have been wearing a certain way for 41k miles and if I change that I am destined for trouble.
I don't need to keep up with the 100+" guys, I'm too old for that. However, I would welcome a little more juice on the throttle, especially when passing at highway speeds.
So now I'm thinking about cam plate, cams, and light headwork with rockers and valves. I'd really appreciate some help from people who have been in my dilemma. I want to keep long-term reliability, I'd like to keep my CV carb, and I'd like to keep as much cash in my wallet as possible. Thanks for any help!
Banned
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 11,232
Likes: 16
From: Socialist Republic of the USA
I went with Andrews 57 cams, pretty radical and mileage took a big hit. This was in anticipation of a top end build. Still waiting for it to be finished but went with an S&S 97". My clutch upgrade was a Barnett Scorpion. With close to 100K I was losing top end acceleration.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 17
From: San Jose
I don't see any need to do rockers and valve just because you change cams.
But, if you're going to remove the heads, then you might as well go to a 95" or 98". I believe 100hp/100ft trq is solid durable numbers.
But, if you're going to remove the heads, then you might as well go to a 95" or 98". I believe 100hp/100ft trq is solid durable numbers.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,197
From: Oxford, Nc
You don't even need headwork. A Stage II 95" big bore with HD 203 cams, high flow air cleaner and a 2 into 1 exhaust puts out close to 85 HP (vs the 60 or so from the 88" stocker.) That's almost a full 30% increase and still keeping it simple, reliable and affordable.
Aside from a cam change at 81,000 miles to Andrews 26 cams, I haven't split the cases yet at 150,000 miles on the clock on my '00 FLTRSEI Stage II.
Aside from a cam change at 81,000 miles to Andrews 26 cams, I haven't split the cases yet at 150,000 miles on the clock on my '00 FLTRSEI Stage II.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,811
From: Centennial, CO
Talk to Scott at Hillside Performance. He'll set you up with a strong, reliable 98" kit that won't cost you an arm and a leg. Won't sell you anything you don't want or need.
Trending Topics
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,572
Likes: 5
From: Templeton California
I think you're going in the right direction with cams and headwork. No need to do bigger bore if you don't want to.The (tc88)Street Bob in my sig pic was making 80hp and 92lbs of torque with just stage one intake, Thunderheader and lots of dyno tuning (custom map).But you have a carb so you could skip that dyno time and spend the money on head work .Have you thought about gearing? a slight drop in gearing can be done cheaply give you a bit more umph across the board.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
If ya going into the camcase, cams and bearings are a no brainier. Cams will be the biggest bang for the buck. Once ya pull the heads, headwork and big bore are right there. I wouldn't do cams and headwork without bumping compression with big bore. Lots of good builders who can put a good kit together for ya. Just depends how many dollars ya want to throw at the old girl...