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Finally pulled the trigger! '05 EG Ultra

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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 01:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dajogejr
Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly, plenty of threads and videos out there.
I went from dino oil to synthetic gear oil (Brand doesn't matter, no need to start another oil thread) and N is much easier to find on mine. About 1500 miles on mine since the change earlier this year.
Good point about the clutch, I'll look into that. I agree, I don't know what kind of oil is in it now but it will very soon have synthetic. I already have the oil for it, which shall remain nameless as I don't want to start that argument!

Naturally, as soon as I posted about the neutral problem I went out to move it out of the drive and bingo, right into neutral. So it is possible, guess I just gotta hold my mouth right.....

Thanks for your insight.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 02:00 PM
  #32  
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Congrats! Nice looking Ride! Now enjoy!!! JR
 
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 04:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Muleears
Maybe this should be a separate thread but after riding it a bit, I can't find neutral... ever. I end up stopping and starting in first with the clutch in. I know they can be picky but this one is impossible. What should I do? I plan to change the oil in the tranny hoping that will help. Does it need a primary chain or linkage adjustment? Other than no neutral it seems to shift fine. Any insight is appreciated.
Check your fluid level.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2015 | 06:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Muleears
After a couple weeks of looking and looking and a great deal of help from the good folks here, I have found and purchased an 05 EG Ultra in Lava Sunglow! It has 37K miles and is in excellent condition. Python exhaust, Harley Davidson Hand Grips, Rider back rest and a Chrome Center Stand. Thanks again for all the help. First thing I'm going to do is get the cam chain tensioners checked, PO never checked them in the last 5 years..... Next will be all the fluids. Supposedly done 6 months ago but I like to know for sure and know whats in there. Anything else I need to do right away?
Congratulations! I love seeing people get new bikes.

Get the OEM shop manual and do the routine maintenance.

That 350 dollar center stand is worth it's weight in gold for most maintenance, washing and parking in the garage! The amount of tread on the back tire will make a difference in how hard it is to get it on the stand. If adjusted when the tire is at the wear bars, it will barely hold the bike up when you put the new tire on as well.

When you remove the clutch cover, swap the torx fasteners with stainless hex and washers from your local hardware store. Also, if you find a flat round rubber o-ring behind your cover, you have to clean the snot out of it with brake or carb cleaner as well as the inside of the cover (use a rag and screwdriver) to get it to stay in there for reassembly without losing your mind. You can re use that flat o-ring till the cows come home as long as it's not damaged, cracking peeling etc. Also, also, while you have it off, you might want to slap some chrome polish on the edge of the cover and the rim of the outer cover. I live in a salt laden place so I do that any time i disassemble hard to get at places.

While you don't really need to use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug, don't over tighten it. Snug then a little more. (or use a torque wrench!)

Lower the heel shifter as close to the board as possible while still fully engaging the gear without hitting the board. It's a lot easier to use like that.

I'd stay away from the yellow craftsman jack, Harley service departments and the brown acid.

Color matched lowers are going to be well over a "couple hundred" bucks. Hopefully their absence was accounted for in the purchase price. I actually have a set of two tone red lowers but they're exactly10 years older than your bike. They'll fit but no vents. You can PM me if you're interested.

Once you R&R the primary lubricant and adjust the clutch you'll probably find N with no issue. When doing it, run the screw IN first then back out then seat it per the OEM shop manual.

Ride it!
 
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Old Jul 5, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BoonDock_Saint
Congratulations! I love seeing people get new bikes.

Get the OEM shop manual and do the routine maintenance.

That 350 dollar center stand is worth it's weight in gold for most maintenance, washing and parking in the garage! The amount of tread on the back tire will make a difference in how hard it is to get it on the stand. If adjusted when the tire is at the wear bars, it will barely hold the bike up when you put the new tire on as well.

When you remove the clutch cover, swap the torx fasteners with stainless hex and washers from your local hardware store. Also, if you find a flat round rubber o-ring behind your cover, you have to clean the snot out of it with brake or carb cleaner as well as the inside of the cover (use a rag and screwdriver) to get it to stay in there for reassembly without losing your mind. You can re use that flat o-ring till the cows come home as long as it's not damaged, cracking peeling etc. Also, also, while you have it off, you might want to slap some chrome polish on the edge of the cover and the rim of the outer cover. I live in a salt laden place so I do that any time i disassemble hard to get at places.

While you don't really need to use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug, don't over tighten it. Snug then a little more. (or use a torque wrench!)

Lower the heel shifter as close to the board as possible while still fully engaging the gear without hitting the board. It's a lot easier to use like that.

I'd stay away from the yellow craftsman jack, Harley service departments and the brown acid.

Color matched lowers are going to be well over a "couple hundred" bucks. Hopefully their absence was accounted for in the purchase price. I actually have a set of two tone red lowers but they're exactly10 years older than your bike. They'll fit but no vents. You can PM me if you're interested.

Once you R&R the primary lubricant and adjust the clutch you'll probably find N with no issue. When doing it, run the screw IN first then back out then seat it per the OEM shop manual.

Ride it!
Thanks BoonDock Saint, some great advice in there. Great idea about switching the torx for stainless Hex heads. For one of mine, the rear floorboard is in the way making it difficult to get to. Changing to hex's would let me use my ball end hex wrench and make it much easier. The gasket behind the clutch cover was the full round one, no rubber O ring.

I hope to stay away from the Harley Service dept. I'm sure they know what they are doing but my doctor only charges $75/hr!

BoonDock Saints was one of my oldest son's favorite movies.

Any other time I may have been interested in the lowers but having bought this and doing the catch up maintenance/tires/brakes/summer vacation/dishwasher/heat pump/car repairs... has me tapped out for the time being. Maybe if you still have them in a couple months.....

It needs a rear tire (which I have, just need to get it mounted) but I rode it about 20-25 miles this afternoon before the storms moved in.

It is surprisingly easy to get on the center stand. Not like others I've had that required three people... With this one on the center stand (rear tire has very little tread BTW) both tires are still touching the ground. I expected one or the other to be off the ground.

Thanks again to everyone for all the advice.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 07:55 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Muleears
BoonDock Saints was one of my oldest son's favorite movies.

Any other time I may have been interested in the lowers but having bought this and doing the catch up maintenance/tires/brakes/summer vacation/dishwasher/heat pump/car repairs... has me tapped out for the time being. Maybe if you still have them in a couple months.....
He must be your best son then...hehe and around my age! Those lowers have been on the shelf for 8 years, They're not going anywhere if you want to look at them in in 6 months....

Happy Motoring!
 
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