Finally pulled the trigger! '05 EG Ultra
I went from dino oil to synthetic gear oil (Brand doesn't matter, no need to start another oil thread) and N is much easier to find on mine. About 1500 miles on mine since the change earlier this year.
Naturally, as soon as I posted about the neutral problem I went out to move it out of the drive and bingo, right into neutral. So it is possible, guess I just gotta hold my mouth right.....
Thanks for your insight.
Get the OEM shop manual and do the routine maintenance.
That 350 dollar center stand is worth it's weight in gold for most maintenance, washing and parking in the garage! The amount of tread on the back tire will make a difference in how hard it is to get it on the stand. If adjusted when the tire is at the wear bars, it will barely hold the bike up when you put the new tire on as well.
When you remove the clutch cover, swap the torx fasteners with stainless hex and washers from your local hardware store. Also, if you find a flat round rubber o-ring behind your cover, you have to clean the snot out of it with brake or carb cleaner as well as the inside of the cover (use a rag and screwdriver) to get it to stay in there for reassembly without losing your mind. You can re use that flat o-ring till the cows come home as long as it's not damaged, cracking peeling etc. Also, also, while you have it off, you might want to slap some chrome polish on the edge of the cover and the rim of the outer cover. I live in a salt laden place so I do that any time i disassemble hard to get at places.
While you don't really need to use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug, don't over tighten it. Snug then a little more. (or use a torque wrench!)
Lower the heel shifter as close to the board as possible while still fully engaging the gear without hitting the board. It's a lot easier to use like that.
I'd stay away from the yellow craftsman jack, Harley service departments and the brown acid.
Color matched lowers are going to be well over a "couple hundred" bucks. Hopefully their absence was accounted for in the purchase price. I actually have a set of two tone red lowers but they're exactly10 years older than your bike. They'll fit but no vents. You can PM me if you're interested.
Once you R&R the primary lubricant and adjust the clutch you'll probably find N with no issue. When doing it, run the screw IN first then back out then seat it per the OEM shop manual.
Ride it!
Get the OEM shop manual and do the routine maintenance.
That 350 dollar center stand is worth it's weight in gold for most maintenance, washing and parking in the garage! The amount of tread on the back tire will make a difference in how hard it is to get it on the stand. If adjusted when the tire is at the wear bars, it will barely hold the bike up when you put the new tire on as well.
When you remove the clutch cover, swap the torx fasteners with stainless hex and washers from your local hardware store. Also, if you find a flat round rubber o-ring behind your cover, you have to clean the snot out of it with brake or carb cleaner as well as the inside of the cover (use a rag and screwdriver) to get it to stay in there for reassembly without losing your mind. You can re use that flat o-ring till the cows come home as long as it's not damaged, cracking peeling etc. Also, also, while you have it off, you might want to slap some chrome polish on the edge of the cover and the rim of the outer cover. I live in a salt laden place so I do that any time i disassemble hard to get at places.
While you don't really need to use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug, don't over tighten it. Snug then a little more. (or use a torque wrench!)
Lower the heel shifter as close to the board as possible while still fully engaging the gear without hitting the board. It's a lot easier to use like that.
I'd stay away from the yellow craftsman jack, Harley service departments and the brown acid.
Color matched lowers are going to be well over a "couple hundred" bucks. Hopefully their absence was accounted for in the purchase price. I actually have a set of two tone red lowers but they're exactly10 years older than your bike. They'll fit but no vents. You can PM me if you're interested.
Once you R&R the primary lubricant and adjust the clutch you'll probably find N with no issue. When doing it, run the screw IN first then back out then seat it per the OEM shop manual.
Ride it!
I hope to stay away from the Harley Service dept. I'm sure they know what they are doing but my doctor only charges $75/hr!
BoonDock Saints was one of my oldest son's favorite movies.
Any other time I may have been interested in the lowers but having bought this and doing the catch up maintenance/tires/brakes/summer vacation/dishwasher/heat pump/car repairs... has me tapped out for the time being. Maybe if you still have them in a couple months.....
It needs a rear tire (which I have, just need to get it mounted) but I rode it about 20-25 miles this afternoon before the storms moved in.
It is surprisingly easy to get on the center stand. Not like others I've had that required three people... With this one on the center stand (rear tire has very little tread BTW) both tires are still touching the ground. I expected one or the other to be off the ground.
Thanks again to everyone for all the advice.
Any other time I may have been interested in the lowers but having bought this and doing the catch up maintenance/tires/brakes/summer vacation/dishwasher/heat pump/car repairs... has me tapped out for the time being. Maybe if you still have them in a couple months.....
Happy Motoring!







