HELP!!!
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From:
HELP!!!
did handlebar install. now my bike wont start. didnt splice any wires. just swaped out the original rkc bars for chubby rkII 518's. wires outside the bars. lights work. speddo kicks on, but no engine light or sound that the fuel injection makes when its starting up. any ideas?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver, B.C.
RE: HELP!!!
If fuses are OK andyou've got a Service Manual, go into the wiring diagram for your model and see what color the two wiresfor the "stop/run" switch are. (It'll show at the Deutsch connector for the harness from the controls....six pins total, two to the switch in question.)
Seperate the Deutsch connectors and see if you have continuity across the two pins when the switch is in "run".I'm guessing thereisn't any.
If you don't have a manual I could go look to see.
CN
Seperate the Deutsch connectors and see if you have continuity across the two pins when the switch is in "run".I'm guessing thereisn't any.
If you don't have a manual I could go look to see.
CN
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From:
RE: HELP!!!
ORIGINAL: Comfortably Numb
If fuses are OK and you've got a Service Manual, go into the wiring diagram for your model and see what color the two wires for the "stop/run" switch are. (It'll show at the Deutsch connector for the harness from the controls....six pins total, two to the switch in question.)
Seperate the Deutsch connectors and see if you have continuity across the two pins when the switch is in "run". I'm guessing there isn't any.
If you don't have a manual I could go look to see.
CN
If fuses are OK and you've got a Service Manual, go into the wiring diagram for your model and see what color the two wires for the "stop/run" switch are. (It'll show at the Deutsch connector for the harness from the controls....six pins total, two to the switch in question.)
Seperate the Deutsch connectors and see if you have continuity across the two pins when the switch is in "run". I'm guessing there isn't any.
If you don't have a manual I could go look to see.
CN
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 720
Likes: 6
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From:
RE: HELP!!!
ORIGINAL: peppi
Not trying to be a smart a$$ here but is the run switch ON?
Not trying to be a smart a$$ here but is the run switch ON?
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Verdad Gallardo
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver, B.C.
RE: HELP!!!
Ok...I'm guessing since you ran the harnesses outside the bars, you didn't end up removing the headlight nacelle, exposing the connectors on the ends of the hand control harnesses.
If you are sure your fuses are all OK, then you'll first have to see if you have power from the bike on theharness going tothe switch housing on throttle side.
This requires a multi-tester and pulling the nacelle off the bike to expose the Deutsch connector for the throttle side harness. (this connector joins the harness from the bike to the harness from the throttle-side switches....there's actually a pair of them, one for each side hand control. In your case the problem appears to be a throttle -side switch issue;power not getting there and back, to or from the bike...look in the manual so you know whatthe connectors look like)
The manual's wiring diagram will tell you the pins in the connector from the bike that mate up with the pins fromthe hand control harness "run" switch.
Testing for continuity will see whether or not there is a complete circuit out to the 'run' switch and back along the hand control harness when the switch is on. On the harness from the bike, there ought to be something like 12ish volts on one of the corresponding mating pins, since that will be what the 'run' switch is interrupting.
It's not as difficult as it may seem, provided you have a multi-tester and know how to use it.
There's not much to mess up on the hand control side other than pinching the wiring up at the switch housing when re-installing them on the bars. On the bike side, well, there's a chance you've blown a fuse. I'd spend a bit of time therefirst so you're not pulling the nacelle apart when you don't need to.
I will check back later when I get a chance.
CN
If you are sure your fuses are all OK, then you'll first have to see if you have power from the bike on theharness going tothe switch housing on throttle side.
This requires a multi-tester and pulling the nacelle off the bike to expose the Deutsch connector for the throttle side harness. (this connector joins the harness from the bike to the harness from the throttle-side switches....there's actually a pair of them, one for each side hand control. In your case the problem appears to be a throttle -side switch issue;power not getting there and back, to or from the bike...look in the manual so you know whatthe connectors look like)
The manual's wiring diagram will tell you the pins in the connector from the bike that mate up with the pins fromthe hand control harness "run" switch.
Testing for continuity will see whether or not there is a complete circuit out to the 'run' switch and back along the hand control harness when the switch is on. On the harness from the bike, there ought to be something like 12ish volts on one of the corresponding mating pins, since that will be what the 'run' switch is interrupting.
It's not as difficult as it may seem, provided you have a multi-tester and know how to use it.
There's not much to mess up on the hand control side other than pinching the wiring up at the switch housing when re-installing them on the bars. On the bike side, well, there's a chance you've blown a fuse. I'd spend a bit of time therefirst so you're not pulling the nacelle apart when you don't need to.
I will check back later when I get a chance.
CN
