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HELP! Removed ign switch, unlocked it, now wont lock back in

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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 06:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by fat daddy
Best $25.00 tool I ever bought!!!!
For sure. Doesnt do me any good now hes on. Acatio. Til oct 8
 
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 08:04 PM
  #12  
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Default HELP! Removed ign switch, unlocked it, now wont lock back in

Heard that if you use a peice of 1/4" tubing, smashed flat, will be the correct width as well. I meant to make o e at work but keep forgetting g to do it. Dont need it now but always could possibly need it.

Thread somewhere on here about other tool ideas too.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 08:14 PM
  #13  
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Look real close at the ignition shaft that you pulled out. You will see that one side of the lower flanges is wider than the other. You can reach into the neck of the bike with a screw driver and align the lower one with the upper one so they match the ignition shaft.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 12:31 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by EasternSP
Look real close at the ignition shaft that you pulled out. You will see that one side of the lower flanges is wider than the other. You can reach into the neck of the bike with a screw driver and align the lower one with the upper one so they match the ignition shaft.
Thanks, I didnt realize the tab sizes were different. I played with it tonight, I got the forks to lock with a screwdriver but wouldnt go in. Tried again with the screwdriver, got ignition to come on but forks became unlocked. Both ways the **** wouldnt snap in place. Ill try again tomorrow. @%$$# first time I have ever been stumped and frustrated working on these bikes.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 01:07 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by EasternSP
Look real close at the ignition shaft that you pulled out. You will see that one side of the lower flanges is wider than the other. You can reach into the neck of the bike with a screw driver and align the lower one with the upper one so they match the ignition shaft.
I made the same mistake as you when I switched out my bars. EasternSP has it right. I'm sure you have slots lined up but you have to make sure the (upper and lower) wide slots and narrow slots are together and in the correct position. Kind of like one of those chineese puzzles. Once you figure it out you will slap your forehead and never do it again. Good luck
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 01:17 AM
  #16  
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I have never taken my ignition switch out BUT..........
Couldn't a person put the switch back in the hole once you take off the fairing cap or whatever, and then turn the ignition to any position you wanted to?
Wouldn't that solve all the alignment issues when you reinstall everything for the final time?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 01:54 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rpking
I have never taken my ignition switch out BUT..........
Couldn't a person put the switch back in the hole once you take off the fairing cap or whatever, and then turn the ignition to any position you wanted to?
Wouldn't that solve all the alignment issues when you reinstall everything for the final time?
That takes all the fun out of sticking your screwdriver in the hole. There's just something appealing about sticking it where it doesn't belong lol
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by crimson13
, I bought an ign alignment tool from here works great.

http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm

I have one of those also. Best money I have spent!
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #19  
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I have also learned the hard way.
Just a couple of tips for trouble free fairing cap removal.
I have found that you do not have to turn bars all the way to the left when taking the switch apart. I point he bars straight ahead and I leave the switch in the straight ahead position, pointed at off. (NOT FORK LOCK) Put key in **** and use a small screwdriver to depress release tab on bottom side of ****. With everything pointed straight ahead it is much easier to work on bike. Also when you go to put the **** in the switch it is easy to remember that everything is pointed straight ahead.
Also after removing the fairing around the switch it is only human nature to want to put the switch back together so you can turn the bike on.
The problem is that without the fairing and spacers under the switch **** the shaft of the switch **** goes too far into the switch and is no longer lined up with the lugs inside the switch.
The simple solution to this issue is to put the spacers and spring back under the **** before you put it back into the switch (just leave fairing off) if you do this instead of trying to use a screwdriver you will never have a alignment problem.
Of course this take all the fun out of re-aligning the switch.

Steve L
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 10:19 AM
  #20  
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This recently happened to me. I had made the tool per the YouTube video for my '06 SG and it worked perfect but it did not work on my 2010EG. I had sweat pouring from my head trying to get it back together. Finally I got lucky with a screw driver. I just kept twisting and buy dumb luck they fell into place.
 
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