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@SecondWind Thanks for posting this man, really glad it worked out for you. Now i can't wait to get out of work to start running it.
Take your time, I done Highway, some city traffic and some WOT pulls. If i would have known it was going to make that much of a difference i would have done some more city traffic and WOT pulls. The highway cruising is the easiest for the tuner to learn.
Dont get in a hurry to finish the tune or apply it, you can keep the graph to see your progress or what you need to work on. I done mine over 3 different days of riding.
Take your time, I done Highway, some city traffic and some WOT pulls. If i would have known it was going to make that much of a difference i would have done some more city traffic and WOT pulls. The highway cruising is the easiest for the tuner to learn.
Dont get in a hurry to finish the tune or apply it, you can keep the graph to see your progress or what you need to work on. I done mine over 3 different days of riding.
You know you can just keep riding with AutoTune and reflash as it learns more and more...
You know you can just keep riding with AutoTune and reflash as it learns more and more...
Yes I do but when you apply or finish the tune the graph will clear and you dont have nothing to compare or see what you need to work on. If you look at my graph i need more low and high RPM's which i knew but wanted to see how it ran when i finished the tune.
Yes I do but when you apply or finish the tune the graph will clear and you dont have nothing to compare or see what you need to work on. If you look at my graph i need more low and high RPM's which i knew but wanted to see how it ran when i finished the tune.
Ah thanks for clarifying, V&H made it sound like the graph would remain if you only "applied" learned cells.
I guess,I have been doing auto tone wrong the entire time. Every time I ride while auto tuning I hit apply setting before turning off the bike.
It's not that your doing it wrong... I just didn't apply the tune until I could build the map to see what I needed to work on. If I would of known auto tune would make such of an improvement I would of put about 100 more miles on the tune to get as many green cells as possible before I finished the tune.
The bike has to be in the Run position not running when you apply or finish the tune, they won't Tune on the fly..
I tried Autotune it didn't make any difference didn't learn cells in lower or higher RPM, mileage wasn't great and occasionally popped. Loaded the canned map bikes runs good high 30 to low 40 MPG. I think autotune will help if there is no canned map or like V&H says some countries don't have required octane or just lower tier gasoline or can't find all the necessary hardware for canned map.
I tried Autotune it didn't make any difference didn't learn cells in lower or higher RPM, mileage wasn't great and occasionally popped. Loaded the canned map bikes runs good high 30 to low 40 MPG. I think autotune will help if there is no canned map or like V&H says some countries don't have required octane or just lower tier gasoline or can't find all the necessary hardware for canned map.
Mine ran great on the base map the FP3 had for my set up which is the V&H Pro Pipe but it runs better now that I have fine tuned it with the auto tune.. No 2 bikes run the same even though there the same bike with matching pipes and high flow intakes. JMO
I tried Autotune it didn't make any difference didn't learn cells in lower or higher RPM, mileage wasn't great and occasionally popped. Loaded the canned map bikes runs good high 30 to low 40 MPG. I think autotune will help if there is no canned map or like V&H says some countries don't have required octane or just lower tier gasoline or can't find all the necessary hardware for canned map.
You have to Auto Tune the base map provided for your bike and set up you have. The FP3 needs a starting point to tune from.
I have V&H dresser duals, 4 inch monster rounds, stage 1 air cleaner on my new road glide with a FP3 fuelpak. The recommended map is awesome, no decel popping. 41 MPG
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