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Installed 14" pyo monkey bars and it wasn't that bad. Getting the wires thru the bars on the TBW side was the toughest but with some lube and patience even it was that bad. Take your time and think stuff thru before you did it.
I have the Biketronics Radio Retro kit, which allows me to use the handlebar controls with my aftermarket Sony stereo. Does anyone know if I'll loose that feature with apes? THIS SHOULD NOT BE AN ISSUE.
I ride with the HD adjustable backrest. Will there be any issues in seating positions with apes? PLEASE NOTE THAT WITH THE PY'S IN PARTICULAR, THEY LOOK GOOFY IF THEY ARE NOT PRESSED AS CLOSE TO THE FAIRING AS POSSIBLE, WHICH FORCES YOU TO LEAN INTO THEM A BIT.
I live in NC. I do alot of riding up and through the mountains. Therefore, lots of curves and tight twists. For those with apes, do you feel that you lost some ride ability with apes. LIKE OTHERS HAVE SAID, YOU GET USED TO THEM IN MINUTES.
Finally, I have a black SG and I'm thinking about black apes but leaving the rest of the bike chrome. Has anyone done this? If so, any pics? I WOULD RECOMMEND CHROME, ESPECIALLY IF THE REST OF THE BIKE WILL BE CHROME, THAT WAY YOU HAVE A COHESIVE THEME GOING ON.
IN TERMS OF SIZE, THE 12'' PUT YOUR HANDS SLIGHTLY ABOVE THE FAIRING, SO I WOULD AVOID THE 14'' IF THAT IS ONE OF YOUR CONCERNS. LIKE OTHERS HAVE STATED, THE 12'' ARE MORE LIKE 13''.
Ride Safe and Ride Often. Rubber Side Down. Over and Out.
I was nervous about installing the bars myself as well. It was the first real work I did to the new bike, but I think people make it out to be more difficult than it really is.
Last edited by FNGonaRK; Sep 21, 2015 at 07:56 PM.
I was nervous about installing the bars myself as well. It was the first real work I did to the new bike, but I think people make it out to be more difficult than it really is.
On my 15' SGS, I removed the 2 bolts for the handlebar clamp and pulled them this way without having to remove the interior fairing or gas tank - the time consuming and tricky part is removing the stock interior wires from the old bars and fishing them thru the YBB bars as the "meathook" bend can be a little trick.
The key is patience - better to be slow and methodical the first time vs pulling them off and redoing cause you rushed the process.
On my 15' SGS, I removed the 2 bolts for the handlebar clamp and pulled them this way without having to remove the interior fairing or gas tank - the time consuming and tricky part is removing the stock interior wires from the old bars and fishing them thru the YBB bars as the "meathook" bend can be a little trick.
The key is patience - better to be slow and methodical the first time vs pulling them off and redoing cause you rushed the process.
I supported the inner fairing from my garage door with two ratchet straps and did not remove the tank. I disassembled the wiring connectors and lengthened all the wires with solder and heat shrink on the bench. I used chain and soap to pull them through. I took my time and did everything very carefully, but it wasn't a difficult job by any means. People charging $500-1,000 to do bar swaps? Get out of here. If you can solder and have a decent selection of tools, it's about one notch above doing an oil change on the difficulty scale.
I'm not a mechanic in any way, shape, or form, but I do not feel uncomfortable in a garage spinning wrenches. I'm just saying that this job isn't degreeing dual overhead cams, or porting a pair of cylinder heads. If you don't do your own oil changes and you want to pay someone else to do it, fine, but there are plenty of tutorials and youtube videos and threads here to get just about anyone with basic skill through swapping bars. Do you disagree?
And Kannapolis has two "N"s. They were our high school rivals.
Last edited by FNGonaRK; Sep 21, 2015 at 04:22 PM.
I'm not a mechanic in any way, shape, or form, but I do not feel uncomfortable in a garage spinning wrenches. I'm just saying that this job isn't degreeing dual overhead cams, or porting a pair of cylinder heads. If you don't do your own oil changes and you want to pay someone else to do it, fine, but there are plenty of tutorials and youtube videos and threads here to get just about anyone with basic skill through swapping bars. Do you disagree?
And Kannapolis has two "N"s. They were our high school rivals.
Massachusetts has no Kannapolis hence who cares on spelling.Are you sure you did these bars??
No really,Their is good info. out their.No one taught me when i ran a NAPA machine shop for a couple decades.Wasn't doing just brake rotors.
Cycles take a TON of patience.Especially doing it right and TROUBLE FREE!
The taking harnesses apart and r and r of the pins in harness's take practice.Removing all burs inside bars to not have vibration trouble chaffing could be easily overlooked(just learned that part here).Can't compare to changing oil level of mechanical ability.
Sorry, wiring done RIGHT is slow and tool throwing done WRONG.
So earlier today, I was at my mod shop picking up some CFR's. We discussed the time constraint of getting the Yaffe bars. He threw two suggestions at me, both which are easier to find and cheaper in price. The (I) LA Chopper Prime apes and (II) Twin Peaks apes. From what I understand, the Prime apes are a replica of the PY apes. Anyone with experience or knowledge of these?
And, FNGonaRK, you're more than welcome to up here and instill mine.
Thanks for the previous complementing of the toy..appreciate that
Something i'll add.Not proud but my sg laid over slowly in the garage on me.
Won't go to details but it happened.
Well it was me and my EXPENSIVE yaffs to get the bike up.The YAFFS PASSED.I read here recently someone bent their bars picking up their scooter! IMAGINE that i would SNAP BIG TIME.
True story....
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