Vented lowers will actually make the engine run cooler... but you may feel more heat on the rider.

 

I had cheap lowers on my last bike and never even put the vent on. Bike never got hot.

Newer bike has SE tuner, has been dyno'd, etc. and ran perfect without lowers -- no heat at all. I put the lowers on over the weekend and put the vents on since these were nice OEM lowers and last night I cooked my nuts. I think it's the vents.

 

That

And that.

You have a tuning issue. I don't care what the guy says or what his rep is - pinging? Really? Time for a new dyno guy. Possibly a different tuner. I would contact Jamie at Fuel Moto and see if he can fix you up.

The lowers have zero to do with your problem.

 

Yall do understand that adding fuel dos not really make much difference in actual engine temps. You would need a garden hose off a fuel truck to do that.
Of course lowers have an effect on the engine heat you feel.

 

Pinging? What grade gas you running?

 

many of us don't/ won;t see your signature.

the info displayed such as a signature depends on OS, browser used and browser settings.
some ISP's also block java scripting or flash applets

If the build description is pertinent, post it.

Mike

 

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I resspectfully disagree, Heat does in fact have a considerable affect on a lrg disp air cooled v-twin hd motor's tendency to detonate .

And and if the current tune is leaner making it run hotter both the leaner afr increasing heat can lead to more detonation like op stated the motor has post most recent tune.

And unless i missed it the op didnt tell us what fuel he's running either weather it be 89/91/93 octane fuel etc that could also be an issue if its 89 or 91 oct fuel unless i missed it.

Heat /amount of timing / how quick the timing comes in along with running fuel with enough octane for compression and cyl pressure (cam choice vs compression affects cyl pressure & motors tendency to detonate or not ) are the main things that usually make or break you when dealing with detonation.

Head & piston design etc also affect tendency to detonate too but the things i mentioned above are the most likely / common causes to go after when having detonation issues with an air cooled hd motor or auto motors as well too.

Thats coming from my 4+ decades wrenching & building classic car & muscle car motors along with dialing in timing curves and carbs to run 8 not detonate on todays crappy lower pump fuel too along with building motorcycle motors too last bike motor being a 76 KZ900 kawi i did a full top end job on.

That gives me a solid 4+ decades back ground building motors & tuning them to stop detonation with reducing heat being right in the middle of the mix for reduing detonation along with proper amount of timing and also when & how fast the timing comes in too.

Thats my exp with what causes detonation & how to stop it in most cases including getting rid of it on my ownstock 96" HD when i reduced oil temp 50+ deg being the only thing i did to stop detonation that also at the same time resulted in 4 or so other great improvement in engine perf at the same time too i think i already stated in my prior post in this thread.

Happy motoring.

Scott

 

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Curious,what is outside airtemp,oil temp & engine temp if poss too when the motor is most likely to detonate?

Also,whats the compression ratio ,cam dur @ .05 along with LSA if poss too & what octane fuel are you running .

Thanks..Scott

 

Fuel octane is always 93. I spoke with the dyno guy tonight and timing was reduced by 2 degrees across the board during the last tune. It is not making sense for the pinging I had in 5th and 6th be gone but showing up in 3rd and 4th.
Again I am confident there is a tuning issue but wanted to rule out the lowers are not causing additional heat.
For those asking the build is 12 SG 103 with RC headers, RC slip ons, Ness intake. Andrews 57H cams, Heads ported by Vee Twin.


I really hate the idea of dropping another 600-1K for another round of tuning. Not that I wont but just trying to work with what I have. Dyno guy is insisting I have something mechanically causing issues. I have checked everything multiple times. No intake leaks, nothing loose. etc..... On the bright side the Master tune does not have my ECU locked. That keeps me from having to have Harley from flashing to stock.


I keep hearing talk to Jamie at FM. I have left him 3 messages over 4 weeks with no call back. So I have kind of given up on that idea.

 

OP, I'm a Houston local as well. I'm curious as to why you would go all the way to Dallas for a tune. Seems like you could find one locally. If it really is your tune and the consensus is that it is, the idea of another bunch of cash and 8 hours lost to take it back to the same tuner is one that I would rethink.