Throttle and RPM question
#1
Throttle and RPM question
This just recently started.
I have a 2010 Electra Glide Limited, with the engine warm while at idle at a stop light, my RPMS will kickup by itself. If I try to rev the motor, it seems to choke out, however once moving again, without touching the throttle, i will move forward and everything, the RPMS will stay high for a little but and then it is fine. There are no codes and it only does it when the engine is warm. I have also noticed that parade mode has been turned off.
Anyone have ideas what might be going on?
I have a 2010 Electra Glide Limited, with the engine warm while at idle at a stop light, my RPMS will kickup by itself. If I try to rev the motor, it seems to choke out, however once moving again, without touching the throttle, i will move forward and everything, the RPMS will stay high for a little but and then it is fine. There are no codes and it only does it when the engine is warm. I have also noticed that parade mode has been turned off.
Anyone have ideas what might be going on?
#2
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#4
also the top of the throttle body will have a barb for a hose- unused on 49 state bikes- this should have a cap on the top- the caps are sometimes dislodged when cleaning the bike.
make sure it is on or you'll have an intake leak which causes wackiness
on CA bikes this attaches to a hose and the fuel vapour recovery canister
2.) try resetting the throttle sensor calibration:
with run switch on...turn on ignition with right hand- do NOT touch the throttle- wait until the fuel pump stops priming and turn off ignition- wait a moment.
repeat this 3 more times
the calibration can be affected if you use the kill switch to stop the motor- 09's seem to be the worst for this- I no longer use my kill switch
mike
make sure it is on or you'll have an intake leak which causes wackiness
on CA bikes this attaches to a hose and the fuel vapour recovery canister
2.) try resetting the throttle sensor calibration:
with run switch on...turn on ignition with right hand- do NOT touch the throttle- wait until the fuel pump stops priming and turn off ignition- wait a moment.
repeat this 3 more times
the calibration can be affected if you use the kill switch to stop the motor- 09's seem to be the worst for this- I no longer use my kill switch
mike
#6
#7
I just tried the throttle sensor calibration that mkguitar suggested. However if that doesn't work; is there a map sensor that might be dirty? Any other ideas to look at if it continues?
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#8
to see a diagram of the intake, go here:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
select year, then model
then scroll down to the fuel injection assembly...click and you'll see a diagram
#11 is the little cap I referenced above
mike
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
select year, then model
then scroll down to the fuel injection assembly...click and you'll see a diagram
#11 is the little cap I referenced above
mike
#9
Get the motor hot and then while it's running spray wd-40 around the intake flanges where they attach to the heads. Any change in engine speed will let you know there is a leak at the flange.
The ET sensor will only throw a code if it is either shorted or open (out of range) but they can drift and make the engine think it's "cold" when it's actually hot and never throw a code.
The way you check those is to either just change it (not expensive) or to put them in boiling water and make sure the resistance over the two terminals changes linearly as the temp rises or falls.
The ET sensor is behind the horn cover screwed into the back of the front head.
The ET sensor will only throw a code if it is either shorted or open (out of range) but they can drift and make the engine think it's "cold" when it's actually hot and never throw a code.
The way you check those is to either just change it (not expensive) or to put them in boiling water and make sure the resistance over the two terminals changes linearly as the temp rises or falls.
The ET sensor is behind the horn cover screwed into the back of the front head.
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