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It's funny you mention that. I had an oil leak last summer coming from my trans cover. It was leaking through the clutch cable swivel where it screws into the cover. Turns out the cable was fraying on the inside of the trans cover and it tore out the seal in the end of the clutch cable. Changing the clutch cable isn't that hard but I don't wanna have to do it every other riding season either. Live and learn I suppose.
Just curious, Bates, did you have to take the exhaust off to get to the clutch cover? I have been grumbling all weekend about the thought that I am going to have to do that to do the job. Mine is a PITA to do.
Just curious, Bates, di you have to take the exhaust off to get to the clutch cover? I have been grumbling all weekend about the thought that I am going to have to do that to do the job. Mine is a PITA to do.
Depends on the exhaust really. What are you running?
V&H Power Duals with Rinehart mufflers. I think I am going to have to remove it. I'll actually know better once I have the heat shields off. Let me know if you have the same header.....maybe I'm going to luck out (?).
V&H Power Duals with Rinehart mufflers. I think I am going to have to remove it. I'll actually know better once I have the heat shields off. Let me know if you have the same header.....maybe I'm going to luck out (?).
I had True Duals on when I changed the cable the last time. Had to remove the rear header. Like you said it's gonna boil down to how much room you have once the heat shields are off because of the x-pipe location. You may be able to get away with pulling the mufflers, taking the bolt out on the tranny mount, and loosening the headers at the flanges and tilting the header out far enough to gain access to the bottom 2 bolts of the trap door. That's how I do it with the stock headers. I'm running a 2into1 now and could possibly do it the same way.
May have to cut your Allen wrench down in order to access the bolts on the bottom a little easier.
I had True Duals on when I changed the cable the last time. Had to remove the rear header. Like you said it's gonna boil down to how much room you have once the heat shields are off because of the x-pipe location. You may be able to get away with pulling the mufflers, taking the bolt out on the tranny mount, and loosening the headers at the flanges and tilting the header out far enough to gain access to the bottom 2 bolts of the trap door. That's how I do it with the stock headers. I'm running a 2into1 now and could possibly do it the same way.
May have to cut your Allen wrench down in order to access the bolts on the bottom a little easier.
We're on the same page on all points. Thanks, Bates. Appreciate the input.
I was thinking about this today. I have a heavy duty spring and the vpc 95. I am good until I get in heavy traffic, which happens a lot more than I like living in DC. I'm going to go back to my stock spring weight and see how she holds, only running 126 tq
I was thinking about this today. I have a heavy duty spring and the vpc 95. I am good until I get in heavy traffic, which happens a lot more than I like living in DC. I'm going to go back to my stock spring weight and see how she holds, only running 126 tq
You should be good with the VPC 95. It's rated up to 148.
Bates: Looks like I'm in the market for a VPC as well. Took the clutch lever apart in my quest to replace the clutch cable (which I am able to do by simply loosening the header....yippeeeee!), and found EXCESSIVE wear in the clutch lever parts due to the undue leverage being brought to bear against those parts as part and parcel to the HD Barnett clutch spring.
Being a total cheap skate was not the answer when faced with the decision to go that route instead of just ponying up for the VPC a few months ago. I could not believe what I saw.
Going to go back and read this thread again so that I can familiarize myself with some of the options your were talking about with some of the other guys.
Do you like the VPC that Fuel Moto offers, as well as the price point?
Gentlemen (Bates, Skratch, Oldenuf2nobtr), am I reading into all the posts in this thread correctly in that I can KEEP my HD Barnett clutch spring on, INSTALL the VPC of my choice, and in so doing bring the clutch pull pressure way down? I assumed that I would have to put the stock spring back in, in order to reduce the spring tension, and then the VPC would do what the Barnett spring was installed to do in place of a VPC.
Please educate me.
For framework, my bike with a 107", head work, and all else is producing:
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