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Well said nothing. Smitty's response is exactly why every other person on here starts out their question with "If you've never experienced it, don't reply". You can't tell me these hundreds of people talking about this is making it up. I know what my bike is doing. And I'm sure everybody's not just making up a "non-issue" just to give their money away so they can point to their new stabilizer. Crazy how most posts on here will get 30-40 replies before a good answer will come in. Thanks to those that try to help though.
Maybe I'm missing something here but where are these "hundreds" of posts complaining of bagger wobble at? I see a small handful at best and I strongly suspect one or more of trying to sell their **** to people who know no better. I'm on several forums and find the same people hawking a product that has little if any purpose on '09 and later HD bikes. Anyone riding a bagger into a long sweeping curve at 100+ mph doesn't need a part, they need their phuckin head examined!
Had mine examined nytryder, he said he didn't see anything.
I said maybe that's the problem! I ride in a "spirited" manner from time to time. I get the wobble, more pronounced for sure as tires get worn.
Some of it also stems from the highway crown / trails beat into the asphalt from transport trucks. When it unexpectedly shows itself, try getting your weight up on the high side of the seat. Get you out of a potential pickle.
I'll be looking into a stabilizer, bike has been through the shop looking for mis-alignment etc, tire pressures are bang on, suspension set blah blah. My SG did it too, so I'm going to take steps to help tweak it to the good side.
And maybe, just maybe, some of us have more "spirit" than others when we ride lol...
I hear ya! There is no denying the touring suspensions are not the best, but in most cases sufficient. I recently installed a set of Ohlins #2 adjustables and the difference in ride performance is huge. I do have some suggestions for additional boltons. Aftermarket swing arm bushings and engine/trans mounts might be a good idea. Then of course the front suspension. Then there is the issue of unsprung weight. Carbon fiber wheels would be a good idea as well. Carbon fiber rotors too. Light alloy calipers can help also. Any way you get the idea. I suppose most of my problem with all this is, 1 I'm 68 yrs old with a birthday coming up soon. 2 My bike weighs 948#lbs wet. 3 my wife and I together weigh approx 370 lbs. 4 Just around town we have approx 20#s of Christ knows what. 5 When we tour you can easily add 30-50#s to that. 6 Did I mention I'm 68 yrs old? I started riding on the street in '59 at the age of 12. (cops were few and far between in those days) Been on Harleys since 1969. I mention this because in all these yrs I have never ridden a stock HD that ever came close to being a road racer. They have always been too heavy and poorly engineered for such activity. The HDs of today are light yrs ahead of anything the Moco has ever built but still not great at anything to do with speed and handling. My only problem with a chassis stabilizer is that it will not correct the inherent problems of the HD Touring chassis, it just moves them a little farther down the line. Kind of like installing a turbo charger on a Yugo. Back to the OP. He has a "wobble" at 40-50 mph. He needs to address that issue. As I stated previously a trip to a shop would be a good idea to determine what his immediate issue is. I pretty much leave the "spirited" riding to others. 99% of my riding is 2 up and my spirited riding involves finding a pee stop quickly! lol Not trying to **** anyone off just have to scratch my head as to the op's problem being in any way related to a chassis stabilizer. Just my opinion though. As for having you head examined, we must have the same doctor!
I've always wondered if having linked air shocks could somehow be contributing to this issue. I don't believe the air fittings are one way. I would think that if one shock were to become loaded before the other (which having a rubber mounted pivot point would allow), it would send additional pressure through the line to the other shock, essentially changing the pressure the shock is seeing. One seeing less air pressure than the setting and one seeing more. This could result in an imbalanced input to the distal end of the swingarm at the same time the proximal end has received a non-linear load.
I don't have air shocks anymore, nor have I been able to readily reproduce the issue as others have written. I'd be very interested if someone with a newer frame who still has a bit of movement detectable from the rear wheel were to ride the same road with the air lines replaced with schrader valves so the shocks aren't able to act upon one another as a linked hydraulic (air being the fluid in this case) system.
I've always wondered if having linked air shocks could somehow be contributing to this issue. I don't believe the air fittings are one way. I would think that if one shock were to become loaded before the other (which having a rubber mounted pivot point would allow), it would send additional pressure through the line to the other shock, essentially changing the pressure the shock is seeing. One seeing less air pressure than the setting and one seeing more. This could result in an imbalanced input to the distal end of the swingarm at the same time the proximal end has received a non-linear load.
There is very little actual movement in the rubber mounts, certainly not enough IMHO to create any significant differential in pressure from one shock to the other. Bikes that still have cleve blocks may be a bit more susceptible, but again only to a slight degree.
I hear ya! There is no denying the touring suspensions are not the best, but in most cases sufficient. I recently installed a set of Ohlins #2 adjustables and the difference in ride performance is huge. I do have some suggestions for additional boltons. Aftermarket swing arm bushings and engine/trans mounts might be a good idea. Then of course the front suspension. Then there is the issue of unsprung weight. Carbon fiber wheels would be a good idea as well. Carbon fiber rotors too. Light alloy calipers can help also. Any way you get the idea. I suppose most of my problem with all this is, 1 I'm 68 yrs old with a birthday coming up soon. 2 My bike weighs 948#lbs wet. 3 my wife and I together weigh approx 370 lbs. 4 Just around town we have approx 20#s of Christ knows what. 5 When we tour you can easily add 30-50#s to that. 6 Did I mention I'm 68 yrs old? I started riding on the street in '59 at the age of 12. (cops were few and far between in those days) Been on Harleys since 1969. I mention this because in all these yrs I have never ridden a stock HD that ever came close to being a road racer. They have always been too heavy and poorly engineered for such activity.
You and I could almost be twins! But Mrs B and I have chased down and passed a wide variety of fast stuff on my Evo Glide, so there is life in the ole dog(s) yet! There are ways of overcoming much of the poor engineering. I also have Ohlins and a stack of other worthwile things.
My only problem with a chassis stabilizer is that it will not correct the inherent problems of the HD Touring chassis, it just moves them a little farther down the line.
Not so, the correct choice is just what the doctor ordered. The MoCo knows what to do, as per my earlier post. The solution is out there and available to us all.
Kind of like installing a turbo charger on a Yugo.
There is very little actual movement in the rubber mounts, certainly not enough IMHO to create any significant differential in pressure from one shock to the other. Bikes that still have cleve blocks may be a bit more susceptible, but again only to a slight degree.
I don't mean for the major design flaw that everyone complains about, more about just the little bit of looseness one might feel. I just thought it would be an interesting experiment I unfortunately (or fortunately) can't conduct.
I don't mean for the major design flaw that everyone complains about, more about just the little bit of looseness one might feel. I just thought it would be an interesting experiment I unfortunately (or fortunately) can't conduct.
I've owned my '90 Evo from new and ridden it in several configurations. I got rid of the air shocks and cleve blocks many years ago, so also can't conduct any trials. I'm not sure they would help much! For those of us who suffer any handling problems those are things to sort out first.
Bear in mind that stock air shocks have shockingly poor damping, which alone contributes to poor handling, sometimes worst. It's best to replace them rather than do any experiments with them!
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