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S&S 509's and general top end questions

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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 08:06 PM
  #11  
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vbx07
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Originally Posted by Nomadmax
He wrote .0035

That's three and a half thousandths OR 35 ten thousanths. Same thing; right?
Your right...
My apologies
 
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 03:19 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Nitro 54
From his fuel mileage before the cam swap, I'd say he was very rich, Now it's good.
Then he's not just Stage 1, or he's stage 1 and has something like a PCIII or PCV.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 03:48 AM
  #13  
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JT

I just finished this job on an 02 FXD, my crank run out in a cold garage was .0028. I had no intention of doing gear drives, I was just interested to know.

I know everybody says to go gear drives or hydraulic conversion. Not many folks say change the tensioners and go on. But some do and they're people I pay attention to around here. I replaced my tensioner shoes with Cyco shoes and installed a Baisley LMR2 oil pump spring in the cam plate. I also replaced the A lifters with S&S Standards as HD had some problems with the A lifters that made them go to the B revision.

I replaced the plastic breathers up top in the rocker box with the newer stamped models as well as the inner cam bearings with B148 that are not caged. All up I got less than $200.00 bucks in it and I'm not opening it for another 20K miles.


I'm not trying to talk you into it, just throwing it out there as an option.



Originally Posted by jt.hunter
Sorry for the long post but want to get as much info out there ASAP because I'd like to order parts tomorrow and put it together next weekend.

I have an 02 FLHTPI with 17K miles on it. I bought it in April 2015 with 10K on it and decided to give it a good looking over during some winter maintenance since I didn't get a good feeling as to what degree it was taken care of previously. Now I'm in there and thanks to a worn out secondary cam chain tensioner, I now have the opportunity to pull the cam plate.
I had figured around 30K I would be in here replacing the tensioners, and look at upgrades to the top end then, but I think I might as well do it now. I am anxious to get it back together and back to riding ASAP and I haven't had a long time to think about how and what is the best approach from here. So I know there is a lot of questions here, but I have done what research I can over the past 24 hours, but I'm sure some of you have good first hand experience that would really help a brother out.
I commute to work most days (60 miles round trip) and like to two up tour when I have a chance. Most of my ride to work is 70-90 mph on interstate just trying to stay slightly ahead of the flow of traffic. I am really interested in lower end torque as I rarely ride over over 4000 RPM. I am currently getting about 45 mpg and would like to try to keep as much of that as possible so I don't kill the range I can cover on a tank of gas.
Right now it is a stage 1 setup with Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner and slip-ons. I just bought the S&S power tune duals to put on while I have the pipes off to access the cam chest, so they will go on when I put it back together.
Dependability is the priority to me, which is why I bought an 02, and the idea of never having to worry about cam tensioners is a real motivator to me.

So what I would like your opinions on are this:
1- SE Cam Plate upgrade or gear drive cams? I will check crank run out later today when I pull the cam plate, but it being an 02 I don't anticipate a problem there.

2- Cam suggestions? I'm leaning towards the S&S 509's but am open to suggestions. It would be great if the cams I put in now would work if I take the engine to 95" a couple of years from now. If you think leaving the stock cams is a good idea, I'm ok with that too.

3- I will put in adjustable pushrods so I don't have to reopen the rocker boxes for any future work. Any suggestions on which pushrods to go with? I just finished replacing rocker cover gaskets and put in the metal breathers before I opened the cam chest thanks to a leaking rocker box gasket on the rear cylinder.

4- Should I replace the lifters?

5- Will I need a SERT or similar, or is there a map that could be downloaded that would work well? I haven't used anyone to do any work in the past, but if I would benefit from a good dyno tune I would pay for that. If I need a dyno tune, should I go with the controller the guy doing the tuning prefers or do you think one is better than another. Being a guy that prefers to do things myself, a tuner that makes that more practical is a plus.

6- If a dyno tune is necessary, would it hurt to ride it for a couple of weeks until I can get it in to have the work done?

As far as the budget goes, I am willing to spend what makes sense to improve reliability and serviceability of the bike up to around $1500.

Thanks for any advice.
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Feb 1, 2016 at 05:37 AM.
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