When I got my #2-#2a rear shocks rebuilt from Howard and installed, they feel stiffer. They are not as soft as they used to be when purchased new. I only have a few hundred miles on them since installation. They might need another few miles break in period until they get to where I like them.

I have set the springs to where they are fully extended for the sag. Hopefully my shock will perform the same like new.

 

With the years of riding you've had getting those shocks to the point of needing a rebuild, it's really hard to remember accurately what they rode like new.

That said, you ask him about the oil he used in rebuilding them. It may be different than what they came with new.

 

I would call Howard and ask him what he thinks. From my experience aftermarket shocks take a bit to break in.

 

I am a factory trained and certified Ohlins technician. I use the exact same parts as new including the exact same oil. When riding your bike over time you forget what it felt like before your break-in period. I do not re-valve at rebuild time unless there was a request/problem. If not, your shocks are fully inspected and troubled areas (if there is one/some) are inspected with a microscope which I definitely have. Your shocks shall return exactly as they were in the same time unless there is a difference in spring pre-load. You must always re-mount your shocks in the exact same manor as per your mounting instructions I e-Mailed you as your bike flexes and bends over time. If you have any questions please call or e-Mail me any time. If e-Mailing me please include your customer # for ease of reference on my end.

This is a picture of a shaft that some other company rebuild a customers Ohlins shocks and were destroyed in the cleaning/machining process. These groves (scratches) you see are not suppose to be there, I had to purchase new shafts. The customer was kind enough to give me them so I can bring them to the rallys for education purposes.



The pistons are all re-surfaced for flatness as to provide a seal between the shim stack and piston. This diamond wheel removes a very small amount of material and provides a flat surface. I usually takes 45 minutes per side.

This is what the piston looks like in your shock including shim stacks. Look at the dirt between the shim stacks that prevent the shims from closing properly thus making the shocks not work properly.

This is the oil that is dumped from the shock. Dirt gets up into the inside of the shock by clinging to the shaft as it is stroked up and down from exposed, through the scraper seal, O-Rings, and shaft bushing, than washes into the oil inside of the body than the suspended partials migrates through the shock onto the parts that contact each other causing abrasive wear. The body is carefully inspected for wear. All shocks have this problem, all things that move wear out including ourselves. Once rebuilt and fully inspected, the shock is returned to function as intended. I have to let the oil sit for about a week or two for the partials to settle. The oil is burn up in all shocks just like a car due to the heat. Shocks work by transforming resisting movement into heat as energy can neither be created or destroyed.

 

Good info!