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LOL!!!!

You Got me!

Spent last 15yrs (of my 30+ yr career) in a lrg semiconductor mfg in Development Engineering so guess it kinda got into my blood.

And now @ 60+ yrs old in semi retirement with a recent back operation to fix a broken L4 & ongoing issues with spinal stenosis , sciatica & osteoperosis making my bone weak i have more time then the avg member here in HDForums (thats still working full time) to spend posting longer detailed posts sharing some of the 1st hand exp i obtained over 4+ decades wrenching on the side to hopefully help out here in HDForums.

My father was in the automotive biz for over 40yrs & also raced stock cars/local dirt track too which is where my 4+ decades or wrenching bikes & classic cars on the side on a wkly basis started.

I always had a more then avg interest in keeping track of things like evolving battery tech ,change in motor oil formulation over the yrs along with interest in newer gen ign systems ,perf cams ,building motors etc too which is where i got the 1st hand experience to post here trying to help out where i can.

Thats where i 'm coming from with my longer detailed posts trying to help out.

happy motoring!

Scott

 

LOL!!!. Comment wasn't directed at you but at the OP!! Sounds like a lot of stress over saving $20 or so, ride safe, Pat.

 

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Thanks for posting your 1st hand exp with that charger actually doing the jobs it was design ed to do in fact desulfating you battery back to decent operating lvl & cond.

I go by results and the fact is the charger you have got results because it revived your failing battery which you saw 1st hand in front of your eyes showing there was no doubt it worked.

BTW,just wondering:

* approx how old was the battery you revived

* was it std lead acid or newer gen AGM

* prior to desulfation with other tender it showed 11.5v so what was its full charge voltage post desulfation
with the Noco charger?

Scott

 

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LOL!!

OK,since your post was after my long winded post i just assumed your comment directed at me because i often get flack for my longer detailed posts when i am just trying to be as helpful as possible, sorry about that.

Scott

 

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Your by far not the 1st person that has said basically word for word the same thing to me when i was tracking battery failures & asking questions about what maint chargers they used when their batteries failed prematurely.

I saw that same pattern time after time when tracking hundreds of premature battery failures over a few yr period in 3 diff online forums i was tracking showing a direct corillation that some (not all!) maint chargers have the ability to damage (likely over charge) the battery causing premature failure.

And thats a real issue with todays newer gen AGM bike batteries because by design they have significantly less fluid/electrolite in them making them much more sensitive to drying out in an over charge situation leading warped plates , internal shorting and then battery failure,does that sound familure to anyone here?

But thats not as much of an issue with older gen NON SEALED std lead acid bike batteries that you can more easily monitor fluid/acid lvl and add distilled water as required ensuring there isn't a low acid lvl situtation overheating battery & plates causing premature failure .

Scott

 

battery is in it's 3rd year, std low maintenance lead acid. First couple charges it still read 11.5 with the tender off, and I only charged it the 3rd time because I was lazy and hadn't gotten a new one - intended to. But the 3rd time it showed a bit over 12V, so I hit it again after using it, and the battery has been doing fine since at 12.5 (sitting overnight, no charger) or better. That's the good news; bad news, a Harley battery that gave up around October just got the flashing lights that indicate it's no good. Even the Noco can't save them all. Except for this one battery, you can't tell there's anything different about it, except it has 4 lights to indicate how much charge is in the battery - you can see it's progress.

I think it's just a matter of time till lead acid disappears, and they'll all be Lithium or something newer, but we'll probably go through a few more lead acids before we get to that.

 

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thanks for the update!

Well as far as lith batteries go,i have done considerable researc /closely watching lith bike batteries since they 1st came out & before i would ever consider buying a lith bike battery the mfg's need to 1st:

* IMPROVE COLD TEMP STARTING PERF.

* IMPROVE OVERALL RELIABILITY ESP IN HIGH HEAT & VIBRATION COND.

* NEED TO PROVE THEY CAN IN FACT LAST 2X OR LONGER THEN STD AGM BATTERY DO AS STATED IN THEIR ADVERTISING WHEN TESTED REAL TIME IN HD'S GETTING VIBRATED 7 BOUNCED AROUND IN EXCESSIVE HEAT.

* REDUCE COST.

And testing done on these more sensitive more fragile lith bike batteries for reliability,cold temp perf & srv'c life needs to be done in real world cond like in an HD riddien daily getting vibrated and bounced around in AZ heat and not done in controlled test lab environment like is normally done thats not a true representation of the batteries perf like you get in yrs of real time real world testing like the AGM batteries have already been doing for yrs in HD's with good results on avg.

Other then the wt diff of lith bike battery that at this time in current design is best suited for custom bike builds with limited space doing nothing to help an already hvy bagger where using a heavier agm battery in a hvy HD bager doesnt make much diff .
Again,todays hi perf agm maint free bike batteries having a healthy 400-500-600cca at 2x sometimes 3x less cost can in fact = and in many cases outperf the current lith bike batteries on the market in reliability ,cold temp perf ,srv'c life & cost too.

The avg lith bike battery on the market today just isnt quite there yet,maybe in the no so distant future but not at this time needing to be proven/tested in real time testing like in HD's getting bounced & vibrated in AZ heat and not tested in a smooth jap bike in cooler temp or tested in controlled test lab cond like is usually done.

AGM bike batteries have millions of miles and yrs of proven reliability in real time use that the lith bike batteries need to get under their before i'd think about trying one out at 2x-3x more money.

Show me 20 guys that buy 20 new lith bike batteries from a few diff lith bike battery mfg's all being run in HD's getting bounced & vibrated around with tons of heat from the motor frying & heat soaking them in summer heat where17, 18 or even 19 of those 20 lith batteries go a min of 5.5-6yrs before failing at a more realistic price too & that will get my attention .

Scott

 

Agree, Scott. Even if Li batteries lasted as long as claimed, it'd only be two, at most three, times what I'd expect out of an AGM, and they cost around 3 times as much; no cost advantage, if any. Meanwhile I'll use the proven tech and carry the tiny Li jumper battery for backup, and probably spend less for both of them. Actually, the Li jumper battery doesn't count, cost wise, because I'd definitely want it with an Li main battery, too.