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Compensator Issue on 2007-2010 Touring Bikes

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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 05:45 AM
  #11  
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I changed out my stock compensator for the Baker last weekend on my 09 w/ 40k on it. Stock comp. didn't look too bad but had the bang & clunk at start-up. Also installed the Baker attitude adjuster. Got rid of all the bang & clunk and a real annoying chirp sound on deceleration. So much smoother and quieter now wish I had done sooner. Would recommend the Baker set up to anyone!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:42 AM
  #12  
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Would I fix something that wasn't broken as a point of preventative maintenance. Suspect. Depends on the cost and my aptitude, But life is short and tomorrow is promised to no one.

The springs of the stock compensator are attached to the alternator rotor assembly and are small in comparison to the 5 independent discs of the SE (now the new stock setup) compensator. The difference is boggling. People who installed the first rendition of the SE Compensator kits had to F with these two small "shims" and lord there was all kinds of debate of on using one or two and the necessity altogether. To all the sayers with digital micrometers... Harley deleted the shims altogether so that squable was pointless.

My self adjusting tensioner ramped up so damn tight that it actually bent/warped the bolts. Immediately ordered the hayden.

As far as your primary bearing and race issue... be thankful it was an easy fix parts wise... very inexpensive. I have read and can understand why people experience a failed IPB shortly after a tire change. Could a compensator's weak springs contribute to a failed IPB... uhm... I'd say that is possible in combination with the chain's tensioner that a constant jarring from a weak spring could over time contribute to premature wear.

Also... your 08 has the ever so slightly larger OD Mainshaft so you can easily order the Baker slip fit IPB.

if I made the investment (which I have), I'd order the GM Comensaver (which I have).
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 07:01 AM
  #13  
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I kinda like that banging noise......lol
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #14  
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if you think you have a problem with your comp. grab the clutch basket with both hands and turn back and forth. if it turns slightly and the motor doesn,t its wore out.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:11 AM
  #15  
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Wow! I'm getting a lot of great responses. Keep'em coming!!!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #16  
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If you go with the Harley SE Compensator and your primary cover doesn't have the oil deflector built in (Model Year 2014 and later), you will need to attach the plastic oil deflector provided in the kit to your primary cover. The adhesive is not provided in the kit. As has been mentioned in a number of posts in this forum, one can purchase the adhesive (Maxlok MX/T6) from Harley or from the adhesive company Chembar, for a cost savings.

Important Maxlok notes:
Working Time, Minutes:
MX/T6: 6 -9

Handling Time, Minutes:
MX/T6: 20 - 24

Cure time: 24 hours

Harley Part Numbers:
11100088 Oil Deflector Installation Adhesive Kit: $50.82 (comes with four tips)
11100075 Caulk Gun Adapter Kit: $7.00


http://www.chembar.com/adhesives/lord-maxlok-mx-t6
The kit from Chembar includes the caulking gun adapter and ONE tip (static mixing nozzle) along with 50ml of adhesive. This is an important point since I haven't seen this mentioned in the past. The mixing tips are for a one time use only. They can't be cleaned. So if you want to use this adhesive to work on your buddies bike a day later, you need another tip. The 50ml of adhesive is more than enough to glue the oil deflectors on a number of bikes. I spoke with Chembar and one can order extra static mixing nozzles. I am not sure how you can order the extra static mixing nozzles via their website, but I would recommend just calling them and mentioning that you are using this kit on a Harley and that you want the kit along with:
Static Mixing Nozzle SULZER MAH06-21T (1/4" X 21 ELEMENT), which are $0.96 each.

So, place the order for the Maxlok and extra static mixing tips at the same time to save on the shipping and handling costs. Than you and your buddies can use the same adhesive kit.
Keep in mind this product has a shelf life. Shelf life is nine months when stored at temperatures under 80°F (27°C) in original, unopened container. For maximum shelf life, storage temperatures of 40-50°F (4-10°C) are recommended. If stored at these cooler temperatures, allow product to return to room temperature before using. Protect from exposure to ultraviolet light.

Lord Website
http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...rylic-adhesive

Maxlok MX/T6 Data Sheet
http://www.chembar.com/content/lord-maxlok-t6.pdf

Some videos you may find useful
CX_Cartridge_Manual_Dispensing_Gun

Discussing Structural Adhesives


People have mentioned the use a JB Weld as a substitute for the Maxlok MX/T6. I personally felt better using the HD recommended product.
One difference between Maxlok MX/T6 and JB Weld is the working time.
Maxlok MX/T6 working time is: 20 - 24 minutes
JB Weld working time is: 4 - 6 hours

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 02:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by LQQK_OUT
People have mentioned the use a JB Weld as a substitute for the Maxlok MX/T6. I personally felt better using the HD recommended product.
One difference between Maxlok MX/T6 and JB Weld is the working time.
Maxlok MX/T6 working time is: 20 - 24 minutes
JB Weld working time is: 4 - 6 hours

Hope this helps.
I'm one of those. The reason I and many other use it is because:

1) it's about 5 dollars and easy to get.
2) requires no expensive, special one time tools
3) exceeds the adhesion/heat/vibration properties of the epoxy
4) can use the remainder to fix an engine block
5) I have 6 hours to let it cure.

That said, if I had the tools and the epoxy, I would use it.
Just wouldn't go out and buy it when there is cheaper alternative that is actually stronger.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2016 | 03:24 PM
  #18  
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I recently had the Baker compensator and Attitude adjuster installed in my '09 Road King with 30k miles, due to the banging noise on start-up (sometimes no start when hot). Immediate improvement including crisper shifts. You will need rotor HD part# 30041-08 or 30041-08A because the original rotor has spring pack attached and Baker has it's own spring pack on the comp. As a side note, spring pack was probable culprit in my case as comp didn't appear all that worn. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #19  
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I used JB Weld on mine recently, I trust it. My kit came with 2 of the little metal clips so its on tight. I cleaned the area good and let it cure overnight.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #20  
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Baker & Attitude Adjuster & All ***** Starter clutch replacement.
The original comp did not look all that bad and I probably could have gotten by with stock but decided to upgrade. Guess I consider it a pro-active thing rather than a re-active thing, since the Baker crew was out here for the rally last year.
She just makes a cool whirring type sound now.
 
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