starter clutch inspection
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
The only sign of wear I could find is on the shaft where the clutch rides, when I turn the clutch in the free direction while on the grove it feels like a chopy bearing, if I slide it up the shaft and spin it there it has a smoother spin. As much as I hate ordering off E-Bay, I bit the bullet and ordered an All ***** starter clutch for around $88.00 and it should be here on the 14th. I am wondering, whats the longest your All ***** starter clutch lasted, or whats the brand that held up the longest for you?
Looks like it is wearing out. With the large picture I don't even have to measure to see the wear on the shaft the clutch uses to grab.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: MN
I rebuild starters for a living, I don't know of a for sure way to check the clutch except if the small gear turns in one direction and catches in the other direction. There should be a smooth resistance when turning in the free spin direction. If you can move the big gear forward on the shaft to look at where the clutch engages make sure that the shaft is not worn. Replace the clutch assy if any of these things look or act funny.
Solenoid: Take the cap off the solenoid and look for deeply worn or uneven contacts. If they are flat and parallel to the plunger contact and not too worn, just clean them. If they look bad, replace them. If a ball bearing falls out when you pull the plunger, don't lose it, needs to go back into the hole.
Low or sticky brushes on the motor are a problem too, clean everything with brake cleaner then blow the carbon out. Make sure the brushes move freely.
Clean the comm on the armature and assemble everything with good lube, I use Super Lube.
Take pictures if you want me to look at anything else. The pictures of your gears are nice but the gears are the least of your worries.
Solenoid: Take the cap off the solenoid and look for deeply worn or uneven contacts. If they are flat and parallel to the plunger contact and not too worn, just clean them. If they look bad, replace them. If a ball bearing falls out when you pull the plunger, don't lose it, needs to go back into the hole.
Low or sticky brushes on the motor are a problem too, clean everything with brake cleaner then blow the carbon out. Make sure the brushes move freely.
Clean the comm on the armature and assemble everything with good lube, I use Super Lube.
Take pictures if you want me to look at anything else. The pictures of your gears are nice but the gears are the least of your worries.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
The plunger contact is ok, just clean it.
I at this point would replace the battery and motor contacts.
I would use a fiber cut-off wheel to get the nut off, careful not to cut the cable, then replace the post on that side.
I don't know exactly which starter (starter number) you have, but a contact kit with new studs should be available on line, maybe eBay.
The contacts need to be installed parallel and flat.
I at this point would replace the battery and motor contacts.
I would use a fiber cut-off wheel to get the nut off, careful not to cut the cable, then replace the post on that side.
I don't know exactly which starter (starter number) you have, but a contact kit with new studs should be available on line, maybe eBay.
The contacts need to be installed parallel and flat.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,709
Likes: 9,211
From: Snow Hill, NC
My 07 did the same, 1st they added a ground and made sure all starter bolts were tight, next they put a high output starter from a cop bike, next they put a compression release on my rear cylinder ....none of these fixed my grind. Then they finally put a new compensator with another stock one, it fixed it for about 20000 mikes then started again, another stock starter again about 20000 miles when I took the bike to another dealer. They put a Screaming Eagle comp in and this was at 72000 mikes 3 years ago and now at 91000 miles it is still fine, I am getting ready to open it up to do a engine swap so I will inspect it.
I suspect you to need a SE compensator.
I suspect you to need a SE compensator.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 974
Likes: 13
From: Chesapeake Virginia
m74cran
OLDMike has You on the right track. I think you should buy your terminal kit from HD. They are pretty cheap ($16.00 if I remember) and you won't take a chance on possible crap from e bay. My clutch shaft did not look anywhere near as bad as yours and I could not turn it in lockup with a 36 inch pipe wrench. The grind is the bearing chatter to the hard shaft as it slips. If your "O" rings are bad and your dealer does not stock them ask them to check the obsolete inventory supplier they have. They should know about this if they don't find another dealer. When you tighten the copper lugs be sure to put the disc in and hold against the lugs to keep them flat ad parallel at the contact surface. Then double check to get full contact. My wife helped make the 4 hands it takes to do this.
OLDMike has You on the right track. I think you should buy your terminal kit from HD. They are pretty cheap ($16.00 if I remember) and you won't take a chance on possible crap from e bay. My clutch shaft did not look anywhere near as bad as yours and I could not turn it in lockup with a 36 inch pipe wrench. The grind is the bearing chatter to the hard shaft as it slips. If your "O" rings are bad and your dealer does not stock them ask them to check the obsolete inventory supplier they have. They should know about this if they don't find another dealer. When you tighten the copper lugs be sure to put the disc in and hold against the lugs to keep them flat ad parallel at the contact surface. Then double check to get full contact. My wife helped make the 4 hands it takes to do this.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,526
Likes: 6,406
From: Honah Lee
The starter clutch is actually a sprag clutch. It's totally locked up till the motor starts and then if you were to hold switch in too long, the gas motor out runs the drive pins running them up the ramps. Then, it makes a sizzle noise at most. There is some grease in there I guess that could dry up and cause problems. My guess is the contacts in the solenoid go bad, if you have the bad habit of not holding the starter in till motor runs and hit the start switch a lot, then it could be the actual commentator on the starter is worn and the insulators are high. This makes the starter weak and it does not have the power and is easily kicked back with a big bang.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:12 AM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: MN
Okay OldMike, the brushes were really carboned up, now what do I grease and will my High Temp Wheel Bearing grease work? I would not think I would grease anything in the motor part except the bearings
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
A bit of lube on the plunger shaft too. Bearings don't need a lot because they are not in constant use.
You're doing a great job. The monkeys on this site should pay attention.
