Gotta Question
#1
Gotta Question
Went to start my bike to go to work, turned the ignition switch on, turned the kill switch on, heard the fuel pump come on and waited for the engine light to go out, green neutral light was on, hit the start switch and nothing happened. It started with no problems the day before when I left work. I've read through all twenty pages when I did a search on this web site and this is what I've come down to and I've done:
1. It does'nt have a security system, so that ruled out over half of them (battery in the key fob).
2. I've checked the battery, 12.2 volts at the selinoid.
3. Swapped the relay with the battery relay, as someone recommended. It is the same part number and voltage.
4. MKGuitar had a recommendation to pull the green wire from the side of the selinoid and jump it to the pos terminal of the battery or to the pos side of the battery tender plug. So, I unplugged the green wire going in to the selinoid, plugged in a jumper wire, turned on the ignition, turned on the kill switch, waited for the engine light to go out and the pump to primeand touched the jumper wire with pos side of the tender plug and it fired right up. So, this leads me to believe that the starter switch is bad; however, I'm no wiz banger on trouble shooting, so I wanted to run it by you all before I changed it out. Not to mention it's a 5 day wait before local dealer cam get one in.
I appreciate all the replies in advance. I've gotten some good info over the years from you all and have saved a lot of time and money.
Thanks,
SugsPa
1. It does'nt have a security system, so that ruled out over half of them (battery in the key fob).
2. I've checked the battery, 12.2 volts at the selinoid.
3. Swapped the relay with the battery relay, as someone recommended. It is the same part number and voltage.
4. MKGuitar had a recommendation to pull the green wire from the side of the selinoid and jump it to the pos terminal of the battery or to the pos side of the battery tender plug. So, I unplugged the green wire going in to the selinoid, plugged in a jumper wire, turned on the ignition, turned on the kill switch, waited for the engine light to go out and the pump to primeand touched the jumper wire with pos side of the tender plug and it fired right up. So, this leads me to believe that the starter switch is bad; however, I'm no wiz banger on trouble shooting, so I wanted to run it by you all before I changed it out. Not to mention it's a 5 day wait before local dealer cam get one in.
I appreciate all the replies in advance. I've gotten some good info over the years from you all and have saved a lot of time and money.
Thanks,
SugsPa
#2
I had a similar problem; starts sometimes and just clicks other times. I still don't know what the problem is, but I put in a manual push button on the end my solenoid that you actually physically push the starter drive in to engage. This may not be the most professional solution, but now my bike always starts.
#3
Sugspa,
Sounds like you've received good advice. I'll attach a diagram from the 2008 manual.
Do you have a volt meter? If so you might want to check that the ignition switch is getting power to the start relay on the R/GY wire. You could pull the ignition fuse and start relay, kill switch on and check continuity between the ignition fuse GY wire 1F side and the BK/R wire at the start relay 4H or 2 on the relay base. It should show continuity when the start switch is pushed. Could also be corrosion at connector so if you could unplug the Right hand controls at 22B and check the switch there, that would take away any doubt.
Good luck
Bill
Sounds like you've received good advice. I'll attach a diagram from the 2008 manual.
Do you have a volt meter? If so you might want to check that the ignition switch is getting power to the start relay on the R/GY wire. You could pull the ignition fuse and start relay, kill switch on and check continuity between the ignition fuse GY wire 1F side and the BK/R wire at the start relay 4H or 2 on the relay base. It should show continuity when the start switch is pushed. Could also be corrosion at connector so if you could unplug the Right hand controls at 22B and check the switch there, that would take away any doubt.
Good luck
Bill
#5
Thanks for responding, and especially Vernal for the wiring diagram. It got me started tracing wires with a meter, and I got an 09 manual just to make sure I wouldn't miss anything in case there were some differences between the 08 and 09. I could not find the problem. I pulled the fuses and the relays and cleaned them all. They were all pretty dirty and had some corrosion. I've been riding it for a week and it hasn't repeated itself. I keep a wire MKGuitar suggested in my trunk just in case and I'm also gonna put a push button on the solenoid. I've got a long trip coming up in a couple weeks and want to make sure it won't let me down. Thanks again. If it gives me any more grief and I find out what it is, I'll post it here.
SugsPa
SugsPa
#6
be very aware of rf interference for the fob. things in the area can cause the fob not to work and cause a no start. before you do anything drastic, see if it does it again, then move your bike 15 to 20 feet and try to start again. Overhead wires, street signs, (electric) even wifi hot spots have caused this. I would make sure all connections are tight, and then install a new battery in the fob, even if its only a few months old. More likely a fob issue than the switch. they are pretty reliable
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#10
Fxdb 2015
I am having some kind of electrical issues like my display light won't come on some times and I also had the bike turn off on me a few times one was about 150 miles on the road the other was maybe 20 miles out and recently was 60 miles riding out where it just stops engaging and power just cuts out would anyone have any idea what that would be I checked battery is fine everything seems plugged in order oil is only 1500 miles old I have 18000 miles on it just don't know what's the issue...