Steering head bearings
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
So, they can clunk from being too tight, not just loose? Since my clunk seems to have gone away since I greased it, but my swing test shows too tight, should I actually loosen it? It seems counterintuitive to think that loosening would make the bike more stable.
Also, the grease I used was marine wheel bearing grease which is thicker than the prescribed Harley grease. I'm wondering if that could be adding resistance to the swing test and making it appear tighter than it actually is.
Now I'm thinking about backing it way off, until it's obviously too loose and then tightening it back to where the swing test says it should be.
What are the on road symptoms of the bearings being too tight? If it wasn't too tight before is it possible that it is now? I would think that over time they could only get looser. Seems like if it's too tight now , then it probably always has been. Why did it develop the clunk? Because it needed greased?
Also, the grease I used was marine wheel bearing grease which is thicker than the prescribed Harley grease. I'm wondering if that could be adding resistance to the swing test and making it appear tighter than it actually is.
Now I'm thinking about backing it way off, until it's obviously too loose and then tightening it back to where the swing test says it should be.
What are the on road symptoms of the bearings being too tight? If it wasn't too tight before is it possible that it is now? I would think that over time they could only get looser. Seems like if it's too tight now , then it probably always has been. Why did it develop the clunk? Because it needed greased?
I personal think from what I have read, they are too tight and the shot of grease forced grease were they actual run. It will be squeezed away shortly and the will shortly make more of a pop then a clunk again. What mine was doing.
How it fills? I had ridden my so long, I had just come accustom to how it felt. Slow and clunky in the curves and tended to wonder around trucks from over-steer. I actually dropped the head down to make sure bearings were OK. Set them correct. Bike was so loose filling at first, it felt like I had power steering. Once I realized it now did what you input into it and no more, it was like a different bike. Wind correction now is just a slight body move. The S's are probably save at twice the speed by just snatching the bars.
NOTE: I am talking about setting the head to Harley Service manual specs. Not all Harley are the same. Some actually call out for torque wrench reading that have the top hex nut. A lot that have the lower slotted nut require the fall-away but even they are different. Mine has a hole in the bottom of the fender for the plumb-bob. Other show another way that actually reflect the distance. Do it correctly to the speck and quit worrying about changing something for the worst or relying on someone telling you another way.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 5, 2016 at 06:37 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
My nut was loose. My clunk came when I applied front brake. I went to dealer and the tech said to re-torque the top nut to 75-80 lbs.
I went and bought a socket big enough for that and that nut was loose by 3/4 of a turn before the wrench "clicked". No more clunk.
I torque striped it after that so when I have the fairing off I can see if the nut is breaking loose again.
I went and bought a socket big enough for that and that nut was loose by 3/4 of a turn before the wrench "clicked". No more clunk.
I torque striped it after that so when I have the fairing off I can see if the nut is breaking loose again.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Bellefonte PA
Thanks. I actually watched that one before and thought it was the best video I have seen on the subject. I still just have the problem of my swing acting too tight already, and the uncertainty of what to do about it.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Bellefonte PA
Tapered roller bearings unless setting in an oil bath need a little clearance for the grease. However, it is so small, it's truly un-measurable. Some cars back when they had maintenance for greasing them. they actually called for a .001 measurable free-play. (GM) Ford always loaded theirs. So go figure.
I personal think from what I have read, they are too tight and the shot of grease forced grease were they actual run. It will be squeezed away shortly and the will shortly make more of a pop then a clunk again. What mine was doing.
How it fills? I had ridden my so long, I had just come accustom to how it felt. Slow and clunky in the curves and tended to wonder around trucks from over-steer. I actually dropped the head down to make sure bearings were OK. Set them correct. Bike was so loose filling at first, it felt like I had power steering. Once I realized it now did what you input into it and no more, it was like a different bike. Wind correction now is just a slight body move. The S's are probably save at twice the speed by just snatching the bars.
NOTE: I am talking about setting the head to Harley Service manual specs. Not all Harley are the same. Some actually call out for torque wrench reading that have the top hex nut. A lot that have the lower slotted nut require the fall-away but even they are different. Mine has a hole in the bottom of the fender for the plumb-bob. Other show another way that actually reflect the distance. Do it correctly to the speck and quit worrying about changing something for the worst or relying on someone telling you another way.
I personal think from what I have read, they are too tight and the shot of grease forced grease were they actual run. It will be squeezed away shortly and the will shortly make more of a pop then a clunk again. What mine was doing.
How it fills? I had ridden my so long, I had just come accustom to how it felt. Slow and clunky in the curves and tended to wonder around trucks from over-steer. I actually dropped the head down to make sure bearings were OK. Set them correct. Bike was so loose filling at first, it felt like I had power steering. Once I realized it now did what you input into it and no more, it was like a different bike. Wind correction now is just a slight body move. The S's are probably save at twice the speed by just snatching the bars.
NOTE: I am talking about setting the head to Harley Service manual specs. Not all Harley are the same. Some actually call out for torque wrench reading that have the top hex nut. A lot that have the lower slotted nut require the fall-away but even they are different. Mine has a hole in the bottom of the fender for the plumb-bob. Other show another way that actually reflect the distance. Do it correctly to the speck and quit worrying about changing something for the worst or relying on someone telling you another way.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Bellefonte PA
Tighten both tapered bearings firmly so they sit properly into the frame, release tension, tighten gently and retract 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn then lock. There is a lot of elasticity in this assembly and the 'SKF' nuts have a fine thread adapted to this practice.
In comparison, axial ball bearings feel loose above 1/4 turn retract and are critical to set without removing the wheel (and fairing).
In comparison, axial ball bearings feel loose above 1/4 turn retract and are critical to set without removing the wheel (and fairing).
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Yes back off 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn when you have 'Timken' bearings.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 963
Likes: 1
From: Bellefonte PA
I think after watching the glide pro video again, I'm going to try adjusting to spec rather than refusing to believe the swing test. Maybe it's been too tight all along. I'm gonna loosen it and see what happens. Unfortunately I've got a baby waking up from her nap right now, so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to mess with it.
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Minnesota
I have a friend that bought a new dyna that handled like **** from new. He took it to two dealers and both said it passed the swing test. Another friend jacked it up to check, yes it passed the swing test but had movement in the bearing when you raised the tire. He tightened the neck to specs and it was good.
If you just greased it I would think you would have to tighten it first to seat the bearings then loosen to proper swing. That is how I have always set wheel bearings.
If you just greased it I would think you would have to tighten it first to seat the bearings then loosen to proper swing. That is how I have always set wheel bearings.
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Minnesota
That's the way I did mine too. What I noticed is when I took my hands off the bars going 35 to zip my sleeves, the bars and front end wobbled back and forth!
This is when I knew something was up. It kind of passed the swing test with 3 full swings. After I tightened the bearings, it rode like a new bike. The quality of ride handling deteriorated so slowly, I did not really notice.
This is when I knew something was up. It kind of passed the swing test with 3 full swings. After I tightened the bearings, it rode like a new bike. The quality of ride handling deteriorated so slowly, I did not really notice.