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OP, have you tried to duplicate the problem at slower speeds? Maybe try to start off in second. Does it break up when you rev it up while sitting?
Sounds like it is breaking down under load. As others have suggested, 2 things; primary ignition (plugs/wires) or, fuel filter partially clogged.
Kind of interesting that past owner only replaced 1 plug wire.
Seeing the age of the bike, I would suggest a basic tune including the plugs, wires and fuel filter just to eliminate them.
If the problem still exists, you will need to check the coil, the output voltage at the battery, the grounds, compression etc.
Good luck bro.
I can;t duplicate problem going slow, after a 2-3 mile 55 + section of rd the bike acts as if it is running on 1 cylinder, if I rev it up most of the time it will straighten up and run fine until the next 55+ run then does it again. I checked spark at both cylinders they are lighting the light as if they are sparking correctly. I am leaning toward injector because of being able to rev out the problem, it also seems to run fine if I cut it off and crank it back up. Like something flapping over an opening then clearing. battery out put is 12.54 sitting then 11.9 when cranking then 14.3 at 2000 rpms. grounds are good. I have checked them. I don't think it could run perfectly then stumble then pick back up if it were compression although I can do compression test when I change the plugs.
I can change a few thoughts after tonight. I addded a ounce per gallon sea foam to 91 octane fuel and was riding around town, 35-45 for about 30 minutes and she was running weird like 1 cylinder was cutting out. It continued till i got home i had wife feather throttle so I could try a few things, I got a 309 temp reading on the back cylinder just under the rocker box cover and 286 on the front. I am concerned that it is a running hot issue possibly causing the problem. what would cause it to run hot. Lean condition and oiling condition, anything else.
Those temps sitting still with throttle up for even a few minutes on an already hot motor and no airflow across the heads are normal.
A possible 16 years on a fuel filter would be my guess. But still could question the regulator, and perforations / wear through the HP fuel tube from the reg to the in tank fitting. Seems like I remember the Mag Marelli has an in tank return fuel line too. At least they are easier to get to than my MY.
Those temps sitting still with throttle up for even a few minutes on an already hot motor and no airflow across the heads are normal.
A possible 16 years on a fuel filter would be my guess. But still could question the regulator, and perforations / wear through the HP fuel tube from the reg to the in tank fitting. Seems like I remember the Mag Marelli has an in tank return fuel line too. At least they are easier to get to than my MY.
I checked line in tank and fuel filter all seems well,filter flows freely and the system had fuel in lines until I broke the seal taking the line loose. I was asked if I smell gas in the oil and I do. I am going to try a temp sensor tomorrow and see what that does.
Do yourself a favor. Replace temp sensor. Clean air bleed in front of air horn of throttle body. Replace orings on a intake. Like was said Chang wires. Pull nose cone ..see if can sensors bleeding yet. It's not the best injection but they work.mine used to let me know it needed o rings first with a tan front plug.....than a noticeable decel pop.
Do yourself a favor. Replace temp sensor. Clean air bleed in front of air horn of throttle body. Replace orings on a intake. Like was said Chang wires. Pull nose cone ..see if can sensors bleeding yet. It's not the best injection but they work.mine used to let me know it needed o rings first with a tan front plug.....than a noticeable decel pop.
I PULLED CAM Sensor and it was clean. I have already cleaned air bleed in front of throttle body. I am going to change out temp sensor friday. front plug has a tiny bit of tan on it. very rare but under hard throttle then complete deceleration I may get a decel pop. depending on result of temp sensor I will get into o rings . I plan to do wires and plugs as soon as I can get to dealership. 1 hour each way. I may just get em shipped.
The bike is a 2000 ultra classic fuel injected. has cobra speedster exhaust and k&n air filter. The bike runs perfect. I can ride all afternoon and she runs good until I have a stretch where I go 55 + for 2-3 mile or more but usually starts feeling weird after 2-3 miles, bike feels like it is restricted. doesn't skip just feels unsettled. Pull in the clutch and it sounds and acts as if it is running on 1 cylinder. I can rev it up and she will straighten up until I go 55+. I have spark at both cylinders when this happens.temp sensor ohmed out good. front plug is a little more tan than the rear which looks like a new plug very little tanning on it. any suggestions. i am thinking injector acting up??
I had a 98 DWG that did that and it turned out to be a defective ECM. I had a 98 DWG that did that and it turned out to be a defective ECM. Had it into the dealership repeatedly and they could never figure it out even when putting it on a dyno. It would only do it at sustained high speeds, one cylinder would cut out. If I remember correctly, it took over a dozen full tank runs to conclude my findings
I had a 98 DWG that did that and it turned out to be a defective ECM. I had a 98 DWG that did that and it turned out to be a defective ECM. Had it into the dealership repeatedly and they could never figure it out even when putting it on a dyno. It would only do it at sustained high speeds, one cylinder would cut out. If I remember correctly, it took over a dozen full tank runs to conclude my findings
This is over 2 years but it is starting to get worse. It ran perfect all winter then started acting up again in may. I get disgusted with it and leave it alone for a few days so I don't break anything, then I try something else. still trying to find compression test fitting, I will check with 1 of the local shops mon or tue
changed temp sensor no change still acting up I have the fuel injectors out of it now the screens look good seals are all good and tapping the injector with power causes them to click and move air. I am fixing to ohm them to see if they match can't find a spec in the manual.
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