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Clutch Friction Zone adjustment

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #11  
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Thanks Rick01. That's what I'll try.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:03 PM
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I have an Energy One clutch pack and upon their advice I adjusted the set screw out from seated only 1/4 turn. A darn good friction zone starting close to the handlebar but neutral is difficult (impossible) finding at a standstill. 09 six speed.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tommyglide
I have an Energy One clutch pack and upon their advice I adjusted the set screw out from seated only 1/4 turn. A darn good friction zone starting close to the handlebar but neutral is difficult (impossible) finding at a standstill. 09 six speed.
Extra plate and disc?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:10 PM
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At first yes, but that resulted in an on off no zone engagement so I put the judder spring and seat back in and now I have a fair bit of friction.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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I was thinking of trying the procedure whereby you adjust the pack until the clutch lever just comes off the handlebar (do you know that trick?) but that point was a long way from the lightly seated point, if that makes any sense. Tryin to learn here as well.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tommyglide
At first yes, but that resulted in an on off no zone engagement so I put the judder spring and seat back in and now I have a fair bit of friction.
But you still have the extra plate and disc. You just replaced the 1st energy one full width friction disc with the oem narrow friction and judder spring right? Those extra plate/disc clutches have 1 more disc and steel but your clutch lever/rod still has the same throw so the clutch will separate less between the friction discs and steels because there are more of them. Thats why you were told to go with 1/4 turn on the adjuster to try to get the most separation possible. Thats why neutral is hard to find, not enough separation, and too much drag.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:25 PM
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After contact normally you would back out 1/2 turn, for the lever to disengage closer to the bars 3/4-1 turn out.
Start at 3/4 turn.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:52 PM
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You could try a set of oberon or psr adjustable levers if you cant find what you need.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 08:06 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
But you still have the extra plate and disc. You just replaced the 1st energy one full width friction disc with the oem narrow friction and judder spring right? Those extra plate/disc clutches have 1 more disc and steel but your clutch lever/rod still has the same throw so the clutch will separate less between the friction discs and steels because there are more of them. Thats why you were told to go with 1/4 turn on the adjuster to try to get the most separation possible. Thats why neutral is hard to find, not enough separation, and too much drag.
So it may serve me well to reduce overall stack height, and I can do that by replacing the steels with thinner ones from the same outfit. I wonder if that would make enough difference.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 08:29 PM
  #20  
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I've got the energy one kevlar +1 pack no judder spring installed. 3/4 turn out is the sweet spot for me. At 1/2 turn it was hard as hell to find neutral.
 
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