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External Breather Vent Question

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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #1  
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Default External Breather Vent Question

I'm planning to vent my crank case to the atmosphere. I have a SE Stage I breather assembly and planning to drill and tap the offsets in the backer plate, install threaded hose fitting and running hose down to under the frame. I will also block the original passage ways in the backer plate with some JB Weld or RTV. That said, I have seen a number of kits that do just that and most of them seem to use a 1/8" NPT threaded hose connector and 3/8" tube. I have and 09 FLHX and due to the servo motor for the TBW there is not much room so I am looking at using a 1/16" NPT connector and some 1/4" hose (.170 ID). My question is, is this setup going to be too restrictive? I find it hard to believe it would be since the holes in the breather bolts and the passage way through the SE Stage I backer plate are pretty small. Any insight is appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 01:35 AM
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I used this breather kit from JP Cycles on my '07 Road King. I added steel braided line to the underside of the frame with a breather filter. No drilling or mods required and looks clean too. I'd say that 1/16" I.D. sounds like it might be too restrictive as 1/8" is plenty small to begin with and that's half the size. I'm running a Vance & Hines Air Cleaner kit btw with a Stage One Map, True Duals V & H headers and slip ons btw.


http://www.jpcycles.com/product/4000305
 

Last edited by Tactical111; Jul 29, 2016 at 01:43 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 02:39 AM
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I am running 3/16 single line off a t , I am.using stock Rushmore vent hoses.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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$5.00 worth of material at a local auto parts store will get the job done. 3/16 washer fluid hose and a T connector from the help section just like Crimson is running. There are a fedw threads on this, and I have posted pics of my set up in some of them.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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I drilled and tapped my backing plate for ribbed 1/8" NPT fittings... Picked up a Crankcase filter down the road from a local shop.
5/16" Fuel Line.


I did end up going back and removing the Red RTV Silicone because it started pushing out of the backing plate, I went with the Black RTV
and have checked it several times and it's holding great after 6000 miles. Clean the passages in the backing plate good and insert the Silicone
into the front until you start to see is come out into the bolt passage. Let the silicone cure for 24 hrs.
 

Last edited by Sam D.; Jul 30, 2016 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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SGJay / Crimson 13,

Please comfirm...you guys are using 3/16" ID (inner diameter) vacuum/washer fluid hose? I couldn't find 3/16" ID vacuum hose when I was in the auto parts stores, and ended up using 2/16" ID (5/16" OD) vacuum hose which I connected to the bottom of the "T" adapter in the stock AC on my '14 Road King. At the time, I was concerned the 2/16" ID might be too small, however it does puff air well when engine is running. I get a little condensation from the end of the hose but no noticeable oil.

Do you guys think the 2/16" ID is too small? Maybe I should look for 3/16" ID vacuum line and swap it out. Here's some pics of my TB bypass...

Thanks
 
Attached Thumbnails External Breather Vent Question-crankcase-vent-mod-9.jpg   External Breather Vent Question-crankcase-vent-mod-10.jpg   External Breather Vent Question-crankcase-vent-mod-12.jpg  
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 03:16 PM
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I drilled and taped the bracket, closed vent holes with rtv. Ran tubes to chrome canister by Kuryakyn



 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by heavypic
SGJay / Crimson 13,

Please comfirm...you guys are using 3/16" ID (inner diameter) vacuum/washer fluid hose? I couldn't find 3/16" ID vacuum hose when I was in the auto parts stores, and ended up using 2/16" ID (5/16" OD) vacuum hose which I connected to the bottom of the "T" adapter in the stock AC on my '14 Road King. At the time, I was concerned the 2/16" ID might be too small, however it does puff air well when engine is running. I get a little condensation from the end of the hose but no noticeable oil.

Do you guys think the 2/16" ID is too small? Maybe I should look for 3/16" ID vacuum line and swap it out. Here's some pics of my TB bypass...

Thanks
that's by far the easiest and most direct way to reroute the breather i've ever seen. 1 piece of tubing and your done.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by XMA
I'm planning to vent my crank case to the atmosphere. I have a SE Stage I breather assembly and planning to drill and tap the offsets in the backer plate, install threaded hose fitting and running hose down to under the frame. I will also block the original passage ways in the backer plate with some JB Weld or RTV. That said, I have seen a number of kits that do just that and most of them seem to use a 1/8" NPT threaded hose connector and 3/8" tube. I have and 09 FLHX and due to the servo motor for the TBW there is not much room so I am looking at using a 1/16" NPT connector and some 1/4" hose (.170 ID). My question is, is this setup going to be too restrictive? I find it hard to believe it would be since the holes in the breather bolts and the passage way through the SE Stage I backer plate are pretty small. Any insight is appreciated.
It shouldnt be, but theres room on the left side, just angle the barb out a bit and it will clear just fine. Take a look at the angle on one of the pics.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-included.html
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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I used 3/16 automotive vacuum line, 2 straight connectors into a "T" and single 3/16" line to just below oil filte tied off with a wire tie. I used small wire tie's at all connections, trimmed off. As far as the 2 holes on the air filter element I bought a small bag assortment of plastic body plugs and installed 2 from the outside of element with a click, no chance of sucking into motor. I have run this for several 1000 miles, works fine, some oil mist at end of hose.
 
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