This 2003 FLHTCI has me stumped!
Just quit running.
Leaving nothing out, this is gonna be long, and painful
Belongs to a military veteran brother, who is handicapped, who bought this bike new.
Has in excess of 175,000 Kms, with admitted zero scheduled / preventative maintenance done.
That alone, has to be a record Twinkie!!
Regular oil and filter replacements, brake pads, tires, light bulbs, welded many cracked parts...
Yes, it was in very rough shape.
Replaced the cam chain tensioners, oil pump, resealed the top end last year.
This spring replaced all wheel bearings, swingarm kit, steering bearings, motor / trans mounts, bushed the worn swingarm axle hole in the trans case, TIG welded the worn edges/loose engine case mount bosses which were breaking previously-replaced Grade 12 mount bolts brought-on by flexing, machined the assembled engine upside-down, back to square to receive the new mount plate kit. Replaced the steel rear brake line, which was friction-worn through by the complete powertrain falling in the frame so far, to the point the rear frame crossmember and finned trans case bottom had a long relationship of touching each other... grinding road grime between each other to ridges no longer left in the lower trans cover having worn half way through the rear crossmember below. Never seen this before in over 40 years in HD.
Has anyone else seen this sort of wear?
Crazy stuff to attempt to overcome... yet you'l never know if it can be fixed, unless you try.
Saved my brother having to replace both engine and trans cases. Also receives correct drive belt adjustment now, both final drive pulleys replaced, also compensator, primary chain, and primary chain adjuster assembly.
Since new, never used the kill switch.
So, check fuses: Good. Check wiring. Not frayed, shorted, or broken.
Fixed the broken tabs in the batwing, and lots more things damaged by harmonics/ vibration.
Check kill switch for shorting. Nope.
Can't read fault codes: The LCD odometer quit years ago.
Has good spark.
Fuel pump is running, but feeble. Checked fuel pressure between tank output fitting and fuel hose to injector rail. Zero. Dismantled the top of the 3/4 full tank to see if there were any internal leaks in the pressure circuits between the pump and tank output connector, None visible.
While waiting for the replacement fuel pump to arrive, I had the ethanol-mixed fuel damaged tank interior stripped, and relined with POR15. Also ran the engine with a can of injector cleaner, using a brand-name / dedicated injector service kit I modified for HD fuel injection by employing a 2nd series HD fuel line from the tank output connector to a Ford bridge connecting to the fuel rail. Wow! my shop was cloudy-black in 30 seconds!
Replaced the fuel pump with OEM new.
Installed it correctly, correct crimp fuel hose clamps... attempted to fire. Nothing. Took the quick-connects at the tank outlet apart... it's bone dry, with a full tank of premium fuel. Dismantled again, using a separate vessel to manually test the new pump for pressure. I left the hose connecting to the fuel filter disconnected, in effort to find pressure from the new pump first. It runs strong while the also replaced/new fuel pump relay remains armed, but the pump provides zero output pressure. So I took the crank position sensor apart, along with the oil pressure harness contained in the same oil-soaked/frayed braided shielding, disconnected under the ECM mount. Harnesses appear to be fine. Each wire is tested to have continuity. I do not have an oscilloscope to test the CPS, but it is clean and magnetic.
Is it possible this engine, given inability to see the unreadable fault codes, was operated in "limp-mode" for so long, that the ECM just shut down? Now needs marrying the new fuel pumps primary resistance / reprogramming by the mothership?
My apology for my verbose text. I am out of options.
HELP!
Respects.
Tom

 

No replies? Too much to read on a smartphone I guess?

 

if it's an '03 EFI it should be able to give a code from the ECU. being in that rough of shape, it may have many stored lol

 

Maybe Crank Pos Sensor. That should put out an AC voltage you can see on a DVM, you'd have to check your handbook for the value. If you're not getting spark, that's at least where I'd start.

IF you have spark, shoot some gas down the throttle body, if it lights up, you know the problem's in the fueling.

My 2000 did a crank sensor on me just as I was finished with doing the cam chain tensioner rebuild. Drove me nuts, cause the code is the same as for a timing fault. Had teh cam chest apart twice to check the timing marks before I took a meter to the CPS. Duh!

 

'03s may have main fuse issues.
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=23854.0

 

If I'm following your rambling correctly, there is spark, but no fuel, and it ran for a few seconds on starting fluid. Is that correct?

If so, the problem is up the fuel circuit. Between pressure and injector pulses, it's pretty straight forward to check. If nothing else, take an injector out, ground it with a clip, and crank the engine. It should squirt a nice fog in pulses.

As a casual off-hand, as neglected as you describe this bike being, and as mucked up as it has been (dissolved fuel tank innards from ethanol?), I wouldn't be surprised if the injectors have gotten thoroughly gummed up.

 

It definitely sounds like a fuel problem. You say that the new pump runs strong, but provides no pressure? If the pump is not providing pressure when you are testing it outside of the tank then that is a problem. You have to solve that first. Then test the check valve for proper operation. If you have fuel to the check valve the next test is the injectors. Test the wiring to the injectors for breaks. Then test the injectors as previously described.