I agree 100% that the squelch & PTT should both be on the same button. And they are. But, in my opinion, after riding several hundred thousand miles, it's a safety issue having it on the throttle hand. It's really easy when trying to push the button to warn the riders behind, to be adjusting the squelch instead. I would gladly pay someone to switch the set up on my bike, as I tend to keep & ride my bikes a long time.

 

Interesting. Do you think they will address it?

 

Your bike runs a CANBUS system. It might be possible to switch wire/fool the computer but it won't be easy. And I strongly suspect that any attempt to do so will void your warranty on an important and expensive part of the bike.
It's probably Farr less expensive and trouble, not to mention the risk of damaging the computer, to just retrain yourself. For example, learning to rely less on the front brake will eliminate one concern.
Also, the larger groups I ride with communicate with hand signals as most don't own, or bother with radios.

 

I may not have a choice. That's why I was asking. I know there are some very intelligent & experienced people on here. Most of the group I ride with have CB's so we can communicate without misunderstandings and/or having to take a hand off of the handlebar. Also, hand signals don't work as well in the mountains & on the tight winding roads we often ride. When going around a curve and finding something dangerous, it's good to be able to warn & slow the riders behind.

 

I went from a 2011 Touring with PTT to the Rushmore and I don't really notice it. Of course, when I need to roll of the throttle and grab some front brake, I'm not talking and the people behind me shouldn't be that close that they can't brake when I do.

 

The Rushmore bikes were released to the public almost 3 years ago (late August 2013). During that time many people have commented on the location of the PTT switch. Many find the PTT switch inconvenient to use while some consider it a safety hazard. Some have felt that the Motor Co could easily reprogram the switches, say for example the Cruise Control and the PTT/Squelch switches both seem to function the same way (up/down/push in). I would like to see a change however it does not seem to be on the top of the list of changes for HD. Just my opinion.

 

 

HDean , can you tell me how this is working out for you and what kind of push button your using and where you mounted it?

Thanks for any input as this might be the solution I'm looking for.

 

Yep, It's a bit of a pain in the ***, for sure, but certainly doable. You could quite possibly (and quite easily) be able to intercept both sets of leads from each harness bundle under the fairing and cut, swap & resplice, but I'm not certain of the number of leads for each switch. Generally speaking, If they work out to be an equal number of wires (and the switches truly are interchangeable) then you should be good to go. There's no difference in conductor material, save the insulation color and striping which ultimately means absolutely nothing with regard to carrying a signal... BUT IF one switch requires more wires than the other, then you need to swap the actual switches (because it's guaranteed they are not interchangeable) which means undoing the terminations and then re-terminating at new locations once you either redirect (huge pain, but no splicing of just those redirected wires) or add the difference in new wire (about half the pain of redirecting) to the new side and then you absolutely must resplice to the old side (or repin @ harness connector, but splicing is much easier, imo).

Overall, regardless of which way ya slice it, ya gonna have to splice it, but the wire chase through the bars that already have harness bundles in them will be the biggest bitch to deal with if you can't innovate with what's already available in the pipe (handlebars). If one of the harnesses installed on the side you need to add wires has enough slack under the fairing hood to pull all the way through the bars before harness connector stops the pulling effort, then you got yourself a qusai-fishtape already installed... just (very securely) tape the redirecting or new leads to the harness bundle just before the bundle enters the base of the bars and then push/pull (very very slowly) helping guide everything through until the new wire is in all the way. Then secure the load side of the new wires (so they don't accidentally get pulled back through, negating your initial efforts) and re-pull the harness bundle back to it's original state under the fairing hood.

I got 14" apes on my 2010 FLHX and the left harness is super long but I don't think the right side or tbw harness are long enough... who knows, you could get lucky.

Otherwise, you'll need to unpin one of the harness connectors so you can do what I said above with one extremely important extra step... add an additional string to your new wires on the short harness so you have a temp fish line installed on your initial pull which you will need to get the short harness bundle back in the bars and it's original state so you can re-pin the harness connector. If you don't, you'll have to push a separate fish stick to re-feed the harness bundle.

 

Like most I adjust to changes like this from my 2010 Ultra to 2016 Limited quickly. Agreed it would be better on the left. But I have not used the CB radio in so long I forget I even have one.

Don’t they just move it electronically through the CANbus programming?