Pad pins
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Pad pins
I own a 2011 FLHTK and am about to change the brake pads for the first time myself. The previous change was performed by the dealership. According to the service manual the pin pads should be changed each time the pads are replaced. Is this necessary? What is the reason? Since this bike has ABS is there anything else I need to be aware of when changing the brake pads.
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From: Honah Lee
What are pin pads? Have a part number? You referring to 41854-08 pad and pin set. Think it's automatic with your pads from Harley. They want to make sure no grooves or rust is on pin retainers.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 4, 2016 at 08:48 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Ottawa, Canada
I own a 2011 FLHTK and am about to change the brake pads for the first time myself. The previous change was performed by the dealership. According to the service manual the pin pads should be changed each time the pads are replaced. Is this necessary? What is the reason? Since this bike has ABS is there anything else I need to be aware of when changing the brake pads.
If you buy the Harley brake pads they come with a new pin and clip. Just changed mine last night. Do one at a time and pump the pistons back in place before starting the next set. That way, when you push the pistons back into the calipers to put in the new pads, it won't push back to much fluid into the reservoir. No need to worry about the ABS if you're careful and don't get air into the system.
...............martin
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From: USA
The pads have to slide over those pins in order to work right and well. It's not much motion, but it is there. If the pins are rusty or bent or grooved, the pads can't move freely and braking is a bit compromised. So personally, if the pins are fine I wouldn't bother replacing them.
As for abs, it's a good idea not to simply push the pistons back in the caliper. Doing that pushes the fluid back up the system. If there's crud in the caliper, you run the risk of shoving that crud back up the lines in into the ABS module. The safer way is to crack the caliper bleeder and then push the pistons back, squirting the fluid out instead of back up the lines. Most people get away with just pushing the piston back and pushing the fluid back up into the ABS modules most of the time. But it's expensive when it does go wrong.
As for abs, it's a good idea not to simply push the pistons back in the caliper. Doing that pushes the fluid back up the system. If there's crud in the caliper, you run the risk of shoving that crud back up the lines in into the ABS module. The safer way is to crack the caliper bleeder and then push the pistons back, squirting the fluid out instead of back up the lines. Most people get away with just pushing the piston back and pushing the fluid back up into the ABS modules most of the time. But it's expensive when it does go wrong.
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