Brake Bleeding issue
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 58
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From: Minnesota
Brake Bleeding issue
So I did a handlebar change on my 02 Ultra. Everything is new except for calipers. Cannot seem to get a good firm front brake lever. Have bled the front several times until I don't get any air. Even bought Speedbleeders and am still having a problem. Thinking about picking up a Might Vac tomorrow and trying again. But am I missing something?
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 762
Likes: 435
From: NE Oklahoma
If you search the Forums you'll find this thread:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...reak-pull.html
Proven method. Clean those Calipers and you'll be amazed at the results.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...reak-pull.html
Proven method. Clean those Calipers and you'll be amazed at the results.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,810
From: Centennial, CO
I didn't have any luck with the Speed Bleeders. I went back to the regular type and a Mity Vac. Also, cleaning/rebuilding the calipers is a good idea, not very difficult or expensive.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,075
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From: San Diego, CA
So I did a handlebar change on my 02 Ultra. Everything is new except for calipers. Cannot seem to get a good firm front brake lever. Have bled the front several times until I don't get any air. Even bought Speedbleeders and am still having a problem. Thinking about picking up a Might Vac tomorrow and trying again. But am I missing something?
The reason they don't use DOT 5 anymore, is because it forms micro bubbles when "agitated" by ABS systems. The newer bikes went back to DOT 4. Other than that, it's a better brake fluid (higher dry & wet boiling points, it's not hygroscopic/ doesn't absorb water, maintains viscosity over a broader temp range, & won't kill paint).
I read about this trick on one of the HD forums I frequent. It will only work if your system is leak free and purged of air. It worked for me when I bled the front master on my '03 Heritage (DOT 5) with a vacuum bleeder. My front brake lever felt "spongy" even though I knew there was no air in the system and I had cleaned the caliper pistons.
The trick: Pull the brake lever until it is firm, then zip tie it in that position overnight. The next day, after you cut the tie and release it, the lever will then be firm as can be...
Don't know why it worked. I suspect it has something to do with settling of the micro-bubbles from being sucked through the vacuum bleeder. I only know I read about it a couple times and when I tried it, it worked for me....
Good luck
Last edited by hattitude; Aug 18, 2016 at 11:40 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,769
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From: Cape Cod
I changed my bars last year with new master....have never been able to get a good lever either.......tried mity vac..........tried conventional way........have speed bleeders in there now........have gone through about a gallon of DOT 4........tried tying the lever back over night.......it's great the first few pumps....then goes back to the way it was........i can pump the lever and it will get firmer.......but can't for the life of me figure out why it's like that....will keep trying........thinking it might be the master........but I use two fingers for brake and clutch......old dirt rider habit.......lever comes right down to my knuckles......i want it further away.......it goes about 1/2 way to the bars now.......want it out to about 1/4 way in.........
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Joined: Nov 2010
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I agree with others that your brake calipers need cleaning and this is the most likely cause of the problem. A scrub down of the exposed caliper pistons with brake cleaner works for most people and will probably fix your issue. However, I suggest a complete caliper disassembly and cleaning along with a caliper rebuild kit. On my son's 02 Road King we found lots of crud in the caliper bores that can't be cleaned without total disassembly. It's a little more work, but allows for a complete clean out. You will definitely have a firm brake lever when done!
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
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From: Bay Area
I have done a lot of brake and caliper rebuilds, and 01-04 baggers were the most difficult to get bled with a hard lever. I never tried the overnight ziptie thing, and found mighty vac tool was just about useless to bleed brakes adequately.
I have a pneumatic brake bleeder that is 10x better than a MV. A trick I used that worked is with the air bleeder hooked up, and the air was out I would work the lever to the bar and back a few times. Then remove the bleeder, pump the lever until hard and while holding the lever down, open the bleeder, then close. Did this once or twice and it works ****. The last bike I did 4-5 years ago still has a hard lever. You do use a little more fluid but its always worked for me.
I have a pneumatic brake bleeder that is 10x better than a MV. A trick I used that worked is with the air bleeder hooked up, and the air was out I would work the lever to the bar and back a few times. Then remove the bleeder, pump the lever until hard and while holding the lever down, open the bleeder, then close. Did this once or twice and it works ****. The last bike I did 4-5 years ago still has a hard lever. You do use a little more fluid but its always worked for me.
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
So I did a handlebar change on my 02 Ultra. Everything is new except for calipers. Cannot seem to get a good firm front brake lever. Have bled the front several times until I don't get any air. Even bought Speedbleeders and am still having a problem. Thinking about picking up a Might Vac tomorrow and trying again. But am I missing something?
Check your brake pads and caliper pistons for motion when applying the brakes. If there is any, this will give you a long lever stroke, and may feel squashy. Fix this motion, which is frequently dirty sticking caliper pistons and unevenly worn pads.
