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Some time ago I had the dealer replace the shift seal on my 2003 FLHTPI trans. Since I got it back the trans is nearly impossible to get into neutral while idling and parked. Shifting gears is difficult as well be it up or down. I can shut off the engine and find neutral no problem. I've tried to readjust the clutch and linkage but it made no difference. Someone mentioned that the throw-out bearing may be the cause.
I checked youtube and came across a video where they were showing how to replace the right side countershaft/mainshaft bearings as a preventive measure since it could cause hard shifts/neutral if those bearing start to fail. Thing is the trans shifted just fine before the repair, I would think if the bearings were an issue it would have difficult all along. I know this sounds stupid but could switching regular 80/90 wt gear oil to synthetic blend cause this issue?
Deep down I feel like its a bearing issue but I hope I'm overlooking something simple. More than likely I'm going to park the bike on the lift and pull the clutch t/o bearing cover and inspect the bearings. Looking for possible ideas before that happens.
maybe the new seal if just stiff and needs to be broke in a little?
or
from what i understand the center screw for the Shifter Cam Assembly plays a part in how easy finding neutral is. this must be adjusted correctly. maybe your mechanic some how screwed up the adjustment when putting your new seal?
or
switching oil can make a difference.
What you are describing is 99% of the time a clutch adjustment issue. I know you said you adjusted it and it made no difference but the fact that you can shut the bike off and find neutral tells me clutch.
If you have a dial indicator put it on the release plate and pull in the clutch lever. You want at least .070 of release if you are not getting that then you are backing the adjuster out too much or you may have a clutch cable going bad.
If neither of those is an issue I would check the clutch basket and make sure it's not grooved allowing the plates to hang up and not release fully.
What you are describing is 99% of the time a clutch adjustment issue. I know you said you adjusted it and it made no difference but the fact that you can shut the bike off and find neutral tells me clutch.
If you have a dial indicator put it on the release plate and pull in the clutch lever. You want at least .070 of release if you are not getting that then you are backing the adjuster out too much or you may have a clutch cable going bad.
If neither of those is an issue I would check the clutch basket and make sure it's not grooved allowing the plates to hang up and not release fully.
I checked the clutch release plate with a dial indicator and got almost .090" release. I decided to removed the cover and take a closer look at the clutches but couldn't see anything that looked bad. Removed the clutches and there it was as you described-- grooves on the clutch basket. Now, at least, I know what I've got to do.
Thanks for the help
I decided to update as to what I did to repair the problem. At first I checked online for parts and was floored at what these parts cost (clutch basket, clutch discs and steels, pressure plate and so forth) factory or aftermarket. I got out of racing cars and building hot rods because it was getting too expensive....LOL.
Anyhow, I decided to use a file and smooth out the ridges. I reused all old components and assembled it back together since the fiber discs still had a good amount of material on them. Now it shifts super smooth, in and out of gears easily. Clutch engagement is silky smooth as well. I guess it has been getting worse over time, I just didn't notice it until it got real bad.
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