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Also...swing arm alignment is not a step needed with Pro Actions or Legends. The bolt bushings are mounted in a spherical bearing on both. So its much easier to mount those brands as compare to the Ohlins
Simply insert upper bolt, then insert lower bolt..torque to 40/ft lbs and then proceed on setting sag and dampening
I would still correct the alignment even if the shocks had spherical bearings, also, how long do those bearings last, do they ever stick, how often should the shocks be removed to check the bearing condition, and are they replaceable.
Just bolt on and go, too much of a task to set sag also? aint nobody got time for that.
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I would still correct the alignment even if the shocks had spherical bearings, also, how long do those bearings last, do they ever stick, how often should the shocks be removed to check the bearing condition, and are they replaceable.
Just bolt on and go, too much of a task to set sag also? aint nobody got time for that.
.
the spherical bearings are used in a wide range or industrial applications for exactly this purpose. They’ll outlast the bike, the shock body, and probably you as well
the spherical bearings are used in a wide range or industrial applications for exactly this purpose. Theyll outlast the bike, the shock body, and probably you as well
While I like spherical bearings in certain designs, I doubt the will outlast the bike.. They are used in the later swingarm bearings and only last about 50 to 60,000 miles. I've used them for stabilizing links and they may only last about 20K there.
Of course I guess you can say they'll outlast the bike if you trade it in for a new one every 15K..
Had you received my instructions had you purchased from me you would have known that the back side of the caliper is a straight edge, not so hard.
He said he lost the paper. Not so hard to read what he wrote rather than jump to conclusions and once again slam someone. He never says whether he bought from you or not, yet you assume he didnt. You really think youre someone special dont you?
Heres what the OP wrote, that you missed. Not so hard to read this sentence:
Originally Posted by hemi1300
Lost the printed out instructions I had for ohlins swing arm alignment check...
While I like spherical bearings in certain designs, I doubt the will outlast the bike.. They are used in the later swingarm bearings and only last about 50 to 60,000 miles. I've used them for stabilizing links and they may only last about 20K there.
Of course I guess you can say they'll outlast the bike if you trade it in for a new one every 15K..
I wouldnt get on any airplane then if thats how long you think spherical bearings will last in a non-rotating assembly- Or a farm , a construction site, a factory, etc etc etc.
Dumb question...why not just put the bolt in the bottom eye of the shock and see if it mates up with the frame. If there is a gap add spacer if not bolt the top? Also, are the 2009 and up frames much less likely to need alignment?
Just bolt on and go, too much of a task to set sag also? aint nobody got time for that.
.
In HARLEY100TH Ohlins thread in the Rushmore forum, one of howards customers sets sag by ride quality feel. Bad idea unless the final amount of riders sag is verified and understood. If too much sag, valuable suspension travel is being wasted. And, bottoming out can occur more often then desired. If not enough sag the shocks can top out, possibly causing handling issues or worse.
Originally Posted by adognharley
Hey Harley 100th,
I have the same shocks that I bought from Howard. I got mine a few years ago. It took me a bit of adjusting to get them dialed in. But the effort is worth it. Your 3-3's are Ohlins HD 159 Shocks. Howard customizes them to enhance their performance to the rider's weight and riding style. They are great shocks. Howard guided me on how to get them really dialed in. My background has some motorcycle racing in it so I actually enjoyed this adjustment period. I know some people would like them to be put on and let the magic begin immediately. But high end quality shocks just don't work that way.
The first thing you must do is set the SAG.
Once that is done, you must ride it and keep making spring adjustments using the adjusting tool until the handling feels great. Then keep tightening that until the handling is not so great. Then back it up to where it was perfect. This takes patience to record the effect all the changes have made. Do not mess with the bottom adjustment until you get the "riding adjustment"(adjusted sag) dialed in. Once this is decided on, then you can turn the bottom adjustment and do the same thing. I would suggest you take a magic marker and put a dot above one of the adjustment tool holes to make it easy to determine the number of turns you are making.
The bottom adjustment will affect your ride quality. If you like it more cushy, then record your favorite adjustment for that. If you take the time to adjust them correctly, you will really enjoy these shocks. I would tell you my settings but I have a Road King which I believe makes a difference. Plus weight and riding style is significant as well. The one thing I will say about Howard is he will hang in there with you until you get it right. I've read that some people find him to be a bit gruff. But I just found him to be the man with all the answers. He just doesn't sugar coat anything. I wish you the best of luck.
Originally Posted by subgunner
Dumb question...why not just put the bolt in the bottom eye of the shock and see if it mates up with the frame. If there is a gap add spacer if not bolt the top? Also, are the 2009 and up frames much less likely to need alignment?
Thats how I do it and posted the instructions in the other Ohlins thread in the Rushmore forum last night. First shock bolt can be installed either in the bottom or top shock mount. Then decide where, top or bottom mount, and how much to shim.
[QUOTE=KumaRide;17449632]In HARLEY100TH Ohlins thread in the Rushmore forum, one of howards customers sets sag by ride quality feel. Bad idea unless the final amount of riders sag is verified and understood. If too much sag, valuable suspension travel is being wasted. And, bottoming out can occur more often then desired. If not enough sag the shocks can top out, possibly causing handling issues or worse.
The first thing you must do is set the SAG.
Once that is done,you must ride it and keep making spring adjustments using the adjusting tool until the handling feels great. Then keep tightening that until the handling is not so great. Then back it up to where it was perfect. This takes patience to record the effect all the changes have made. Do not mess with the bottom adjustment until you get the "riding adjustment"(adjusted sag) dialed in. Once this is decided on, then you can turn the bottom adjustment and do the same thing. I would suggest you take a magic marker and put a dot above one of the adjustment tool holes to make it easy to determine the number of turns you are making.
I am thinking he has already set the rider sag by his comment in red. Then followed Howard's verbal instructions to get the bike dialed in. Hopefully, he will chime in and clarify.
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