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Dumb question...why not just put the bolt in the bottom eye of the shock and see if it mates up with the frame. If there is a gap add spacer if not bolt the top? Also, are the 2009 and up frames much less likely to need alignment?
It's shocks. They've usually a crude rubber bushing. Nothing is terribly precise in the shock mounting and the bushing allows for flex and mild misalignment.
I wouldnt get on any airplane then if thats how long you think spherical bearings will last in a non-rotating assembly- Or a farm , a construction site, a factory, etc etc etc.
As far as airplanes go the load is static not dynamic.. Farm equipment? It's a good thing they don't fly..
In HARLEY100TH Ohlins thread in the Rushmore forum, one of howards customers sets sag by ride quality feel. Bad idea unless the final amount of riders sag is verified and understood. If too much sag, valuable suspension travel is being wasted. And, bottoming out can occur more often then desired. If not enough sag the shocks can top out, possibly causing handling issues or worse.
You took that statement out of context, I agree with you on setting sag, I wish there was an o-ring on the shaft, instead of using a ty-wrap.
Been on Ohlins close to 100k, combined on three bikes.
In HARLEY100TH Ohlins thread in the Rushmore forum, one of howards customers sets sag by ride quality feel. Bad idea unless the final amount of riders sag is verified and understood. If too much sag, valuable suspension travel is being wasted. And, bottoming out can occur more often then desired. If not enough sag the shocks can top out, possibly causing handling issues or worse.
The first thing you must do is set the SAG.
Once that is done,you must ride it and keep making spring adjustments using the adjusting tool until the handling feels great. Then keep tightening that until the handling is not so great. Then back it up to where it was perfect. This takes patience to record the effect all the changes have made. Do not mess with the bottom adjustment until you get the "riding adjustment"(adjusted sag) dialed in. Once this is decided on, then you can turn the bottom adjustment and do the same thing. I would suggest you take a magic marker and put a dot above one of the adjustment tool holes to make it easy to determine the number of turns you are making.
I am thinking he has already set the rider sag by his comment in red. Then followed Howard's verbal instructions to get the bike dialed in. Hopefully, he will chime in and clarify.
Even if this is post riders sag set, he wrote "Once that is done, you must keep making spring adjustments... until the handling feels great". Can that be one turn, 8 turns or it does not matter how many turns....
Not trying to give him a bad time. Just want to make sure he and others understand the reasons to set sag correctly. Not saying it has to be perfect.
I prefer 1up sag around 25mm and when riding 2up, changing preload is not necessary. My wife weighs 110lbs
Originally Posted by Schex
You took that statement out of context, I agree with you on setting sag, I wish there was an o-ring on the shaft, instead of using a ty-wrap.
Been on Ohlins close to 100k, combined on three bikes.
Even if this is post riders sag set, he wrote "Once that is done, you must keep making spring adjustments... until the handling feels great". Can that be one turn, 8 turns or it does not matter how many turns....
Not trying to give him a bad time. Just want to make sure he and others understand the reasons to set sag correctly. Not saying it has to be perfect.
I prefer 1up sag around 25mm and when riding 2up, changing preload is not necessary. My wife weighs 110lbs
For me it was six full turns after setting the rider sag. I used the tie-wrap method suggested by Howard.
I knew the context
.
For me it was six full turns after setting the rider sag. I used the tie wrap method suggested by Howard.
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