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Yes,thats correct mfg & the maint/float charger i was talking about is their inexpensive 1.5amp maint/float charger.

It hasn't damaged any of my batteries to date, but because its seems to float charge my bikes AGM battery 13.1volts that i feel over enough time (esp months in a row of 12/4 on the battery in off season storage) at the pretty high 13.1+ float rate charge on a battery that has full charge voltage of approx 12.7-12.8 volts MAX that less electrolyte to begin with then a std lead acid batt does is more sensitive to drying out damaging the plates enough to at the very least weaken it & or worse yet completely trash it.

Why the mfg's don't simply design them to hold float charge at a more reasonable 12.8v to 12.9v MAX i dont know.

Or better yet to eliminate that issue all together they could simply omit float charging all together and turn off the std charge rate when the battery hits a full charge of lets say a max of 12.8v max vs 13.1V+.

Then monitor batt voltage and turn the charger back on to its full charge rate again if/when battery voltage drops to 12.6v or lowest of 12.5v to recharge it back to a max of 12.8v again and shut back down again when used on std lead acid or AGM batt that's a more advanced & powerful type lead acid batt design tech utilizing less acid/electrolyte.

That type charging isn't an issue with std lead acid or AGM batteries because that type design/tech has little to no issues with " memory " like for ex rechargeable Nicad's do that over time reduces the batteries capacity & overall srv'c life.

Thats basically what i have been doing with the batteries on my bikes and classic cars for over 40yrs consistently getting longer then avg srv'c life out of my batteries doing just that.

Last new bike batt i installed in one of my bikes was a Deka agm that was still going strong @ 7.5yrs still starting a 1700cc v-twin with no problem when i sold the bike.

Last repop std lead acid Delco R59 batt in my classic muscle car lasted 7.5yrs & the newer gen AGM repop Delco R59 battery i replaced that with is still going strong @ 7+ yrs and counting too using my above mentioned charging strategy.

Keeping a good eye on (fluid lvl adding dist water as needed & keeping terminals & batt clean too) on the last batt (std lead acid Excide) i had in my everyday use Nissan Maxima lasted 10yr's right on the button and last std lead acid Autozone battery in my stepsons car lasted 7.5yrs doing same maint on it too.

Following the above mentioned battery maint & charging has put me in a position to never have a motorcycle or car battery (classic or daily driver) crap out on me in only 2.5-3-4 yrs like i often see & or hear is happening to other people on a fairly normal basis.

And i live where summer temps hit 100+deg f 2 times with 95-98deg f HHH heat to deal with on a daily basis too along with off season seeing " 0 " deg f & below that at times too so the batteries are stressed on both ends of the temp spectrum too.

Scott

 

Yuasa GYZ32HL is what I bought to replace my original equip. H-D battery this summer when it was getting ready to take a dump. It was branded as a "Drag Specialties Premium Performance Battery", but was the GYZ32HL in re-branded clothing. It's been a great upgrade thus far, and cranks the motor much more easily than stock ever did. If I'd had the time I would've bought from Phat Performance for $132, but was on the road and found a decent deal on what would have been much higher priced at retail.

 

While I share your concerns about float voltages on AGM batteries. It is not what I' asking about..

I'm more interested in how you got 640 CCA..

For you discussion on float voltage 13.1 might be OK.. It takes a few tenths at lease to reverse drain and charge the battery.. Don't know exactly what it is for an AGM but I'm sure the manufacturer can tell you.. Still I like a charger that simply monitors the voltage and when it gets below a predetermined voltage, it's charges until charged then shuts down and goes back to monitoring the voltage.. Holding float doesn't sit well with me either.

 

I got a twin power lithium in may. Powerful, and weighs 15.6 lbs less than the stocker. Downside is that is is made in china.......

 

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' I'm more interested in how you got 640 CCA.."

UMPH!!/ LOL!!!

I already ans your questions 2x in my prior posts in this thread.

1 more time.

I used a proper (almost new) digital battery testing device to test cca's on the battery.

You can either believe it or not, but i just had a heart attack a wk ago and then just this am /today
got out of the hospital again for another medical issue so getting pt#'s/model #'s for the digital test device
or maint/float charger are not priority for me.

And i also stated the reason it tested well over it's 500CCA spec was because i had tested it @ a much warmer temp above the " 0 " deg f the battery is supposed to be at to most accurately/properly test CCS'a .

So because i had tested the batteries cca's @ a much warmer temp thats why is showed higher then spec CCA's.

You may not be aware but there are really 2 diff cranking amp specs for std car/truck/motorcycle for std lead acid or newer gen lead acid AGM batteries most of us are running (not talking marine,lith-Ion etc) which are :

: CA's (" CRANKING AMPS " checked with battery @ 32deg-f/higher then CCA's)

: CCA's (" COLD CRANKING AMPS " checked when battery is at " 0 " -deg-f /lower then CA's).

So i guess you (and anyone else reading this) will actually have to believe what i am posting isn't BS because i see no need to justify any further what i have posted on the subject coming from my 4.5 decades under my belt wrenching bikes & cars/classic muscle cars etc i am simply trying to share to help out here in HDforums & thats it.

Happy motoring.

Scott

 

Sorry if I got you upset..

I'm simply asking the model mumber of the battery tester.. I understand issue with CCA's change do to temperature.. The reason I asked to you pull a number off a digital tester was to look at the specs. The digital tester I use corrects for correct to zero degrees CCA measurement.. It also does 5 other Std tests measurements for EN, JIS, SAE etc.. BTW the tester I used came up with something like 550 to 580 CCA (corrected) on the yuasa battery..

Not sure if you are applying a correction to a number that don't need correcting.. Manual will say for sure.. The links you gave were for analog battery testers..

BTW, I go back further than you..

 

That's what I did over a year ago. TWO YEAR WARRANTY. LOCAL WALK IN, WALK OUT REPLACE. COAST TO COAST STORES.
I asked the man at the store who makes it - "East Penn, of course" He said.
So far, so good.

 

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" Sorry if I got you upset.."

NP ,wasn't ticked @ all!

" BTW, I go back further than you "

Well i dont know about you but over this past yr things/age has been catching up with me & kicking my butt big time.

Over past yr found i had severe osteoperosis that led to a back operation for broken L4 dues to back being so weakened by the osteo.

Then i had mult operations to remove mult kidney/bladder stones, then i had a heart attack on 8/26/16 due to 1 artery being 95% blocked needing a stent install,other 3-4 arteries in my heart are blocked 40-50% just under the min >60% blockage required for health ins to cover stenting.

So it's nasty statins for me ,i will take co-q10 to try to minimize damage from statins.

Then just today i had same day surgery for a special steroidal back shot in L4 area to try to reduce ongoing lower back pain & sciatica pain also coming from issues with a bulged disc along with also having spinal stenosis & arthritis in my back too.

Feel like i am frigging falling appart !/LOL!!!

Happy motoring!

Scott

 

the specs for the wicked battery got my attention, but looking for more details. Deka makes HD branded batteries i believe, + fresher is better. factory ready sealed batteries last less if they set + are not charged, but batteries activated at purchase last longer, + they are dated so check them!!

 

?? AGM batteries have a lower leak rate than a flooded battery.. Longer shelf life..