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So, after changing my mind YET AGAIN on the upgrades for my 07 EG Classic, I will be installing a SERT, SEAC and V&H True Duals with ovals. My question is with the SERT. If I am not using all SE parts, will the map that comes "closest" to my setup allow my bike to run good, or do I "need" a tuner and dyno time? I actually have a squared away stealer and I'm sure they will take care of me but I just wanted to get some real opinions from you all. Thanks, ride safe and remember to take a moment this weekend to honor the fallen.
Well,.... you can pick out a setup that will get you very close. If you read the manuel or print it out, warning: it is a thick book and takes alot of ink but its very useful, it will show you how to modify and fine tune your bike. I got my 06 Dyna really close with one of the canned maps on the CD and I just modified it to my specific setup. Now if you want every bit of power and dont want to bother tinkering then a Dyno tune by a good tuner would be a good investment. It just all depends on what your looking for. You can get it alot closer and better running by just reading the book and modifying one of the maps thats close to your setup than any of the H-D flash downloads could ever get.
If you have a laptop or even a desktop that you can get close to your bike, flashing is easy and will save you some cash. The latest "J" software has a map that'll get you hooked up.
IMO don't buy the SEAC. You can do better with the K&N RK 3909 which is like $110 at Auto Zone and is the real deal. There is also Arlen Ness Big Sucker which you can order through Eastern Performance, $78( as well as the pipes, check it out)
I would not go with the true duals. Just go with the Ovals. The factory headers actually make good power with the Ovals. You will lose 4-5 HP & TQ with the duals.If you went with this setup (stock headers & Ovals)you would use map 78 and request they max out your o2 bias tables to 798.
Check out the tech section re tuners!
You have a wait for the SERT..JUne 15 last I heard. Better order it now.
Stay safe.
i have about the same setup at you, but went with the AN BS. i used a canned map that was close with my SERT. Bike ran ok, but after checking the plugs, it was still running quite lean. also, extreme heat was still an issue.
i finally took the bike with my SERT interface box down and had it dyno'd. end result was a richer AFR, (in the 13s instead of high 14s). bike runs a lot stronger. but my biggest concern was the AFR, and the plugs now are a light tan, showing a good mixture and a noticable drop in heat.
in my case, i recommend the dyno with a qualified technician. If you do get it dyno'd, take down a memory stick or blank CD so that you can get a copy of the custom map they build.
I have to agree with doing without the SEAC. Check out Eastern Performance's EBAy store. I live close to their shop and have done quite a bit of business with them. They are friendly and stock alot of merchandise. You will save quite a bit going with the Ness supersucker and buying your pipes from Eastern. I would also reccomend going with a PCIII over the SERT. I think Eastern sells them for under 300 bucks. With the money you save you can get the bike professionally tuned. Most tuners I know prefer the PCIII over the SERT.
A canned map will be a good starting point, but you should richen the a/f to about 14.0 for cruise; many of the maps have a/f at 14.5 and that is maximum lean, so richen those cells.
You can do it yourself and have a goodrunning bike. I do this on mine, but take it to the dealer's dyno guy and pay $50 to confirm that my a/f is good and get some hp and torque information; but, it's knowing the a/f is good that makes the $50 worth it.
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