Got into the habit of using the torque wrench, so I just do it on everything I can now. But I especially it on the drain plug; one bad experience stripping it out on my truck, and I don't even take the chance with it on the bike.

 

I have to agree with this. I have a new HF and an old Craftsman. Took both of them to work and tested them against a Mac and they were all dead on across the board.
To answer the OP's question, no I do not torque the oil drain plug. It's not a bad habit to have for sure but over the years you learn to develop a feel for things.

 

OP -

I have 3 torque wrenches (in/lbs, 3/8 drive ft/lbs, and 1/2 drive ft/lbs). I use them on drain plugs and most everything I can, because I tend to overtighten. Well worth the investment...look for a sale. Yeah, you can develop a "feel" for fastener tightness, but it's usually the point where the threads start to deform/strip. Piece of mind is good.

 

uh, er, "peace" of mind that is...

 

This has not been mentioned yet , but make sure you 0 the wrench setting after you are done, manufacture says will put your wrench out of calibration if you don't.

 

It's all fun and games until there's a misprint in the service manual for torquing down a pinch bolt nut and then snap. I knew it looked high for a torque value :-/

 

Been working on bike/cars for a good portion of my life, never once have I used a torque wrench on an oil plug, and never once have I stripped one out or had a leak. I suppose I just never gave it a second thought. But, when I first started wrenching, I would only pull a torque wrench out when installing heads (and I'd have to borrow it). I guess now because I have a few of them, I use them more often.

 

For those of you that have had your torque wrenches a while, have you had them recalibrated or verified? My Snap-On need to be adjusted every 5-6 years. I bought it in 1986. That one was stolen and needs to be replaced, but I don't do 2-3 motor build every year like I used to.

 

Many years ago my Dad taught me to use a hand wrench using only the strength in ONE hand and the wrist and NOT using my full shoulder or body weight.

I've been fortunate through the years and I think I've only "stripped" the threads of one outer primary cover ('75 FLH) and that was when I removed the plug!

As for the HF torque wrenches, I also have one and I've had many friends warn me about them.
I've not checked it against other wrenches but I only used it on one job and I DO NOT believe it is accurate.

On a little side note, a friend of mine (who happens to be a hot rod builder) was doing some work on one of his vehicles and misread the torque specs for the lug nuts on his truck (which was listed as 140 Newton Meters, about 103 ft. pounds).
He torqued the wheels at 140 foot pounds, which "stretched" the lug bolts apart and nearly lead to a tragedy.
Fortunately, I noticed that his center cap was missing on one wheel and he sensed something was wrong just as we entered a mall parking lot.
He had both front hubs replaced and new lugs installed in the rear axles.

Be sure to pay close attention to the specs between foot. pounds, inch pounds, and Newton Meters of torque.

 

I use a torque wrench every time I see a torque spec in the manual. I just figure its a little extra assurance.

FWIW I'm retired USAF PMEL (precision measurement equipment laboratory) specialist. I've been calibrating stuff for the better part of the last 24 years. I've calibrated more torque wrenches than I care to remember and I've had most manufacturer's wrenches apart for repair/adjustment/replacement at one time or another. I've had a few HF wrenches apart to adjust and they're assembled just about like every other wrench out there but their components are definitely down a few notches. Softer ball bearings (and fewer of them) lighter weight grease, rougher slides, weaker springs, etc. They may read "just as good" as a snap on but they sure won't hold up as long or as well... jut my 2 cents.

But, even using a HF wrench is better than not using a torque wrench at all.

If you are using a snap action impulse feel torque wrench (the kind that clicks or releases when you reach the set torque) there's a couple of things you can do to make your results a LOT more consistent;

1) always store it at its lowest setting (some of them don't actually go all the way down to zero) but they're all made to sit resting at their lowest graduated setting NO LOWER

2) exercise them before you use them. turn them up their highest setting (or at least the setting you're about to use) and "break" them six times before you use them. If you exercise on the highest setting the exercise will be good for a whole day (if you're going to be using it more than once that day). These kinds of wrenches work on two greased and angled pieces of metal held against each other by a spring. Exercising them manipulates the spring a few times and moves the grease around.

3) Try not to use any extensions on the wrench - changing the head angle and length can change the applied torque value

4) Apply the torque smoothly and evenly

5) When applying torque set the wrench to the mid point value - if your manual says 90 to 100 inlbs set the wrench for 95 inlbs

Almost all of the wrenches used on aircraft and munitions get recalibrated at least once a year (most of them get cal'd more often than that).

Recalibration (at least a good recalibration) is actually pretty expensive and most automotive and hobby users don't bother with it. Actual recalibration is comparing it to a standard that's at a minimum 4 times more accurate than the wrench is, so there aren't a lot of cheap places with the required standards - they can get pretty pricey.

Even if you can't afford periodic recalibration just good maintenance will keep your wrench reasonably accurate for a very long time: keep it clean, never drop it or handle it roughly, store at its lowest setting, and exercise it before use