Battery Time?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 6
From: Livingston, Texas
Go to Batteries Plus.
If you want the top of the line look at a Odyssey battery.
But they still got super good Batteries.
Make sure you get a AGM like somebody said.
Ask about what kind of charger you need.
I got a Battery tender water proof 5 amp charger.
That is what you need to charge the battery.
If you want the top of the line look at a Odyssey battery.
But they still got super good Batteries.
Make sure you get a AGM like somebody said.
Ask about what kind of charger you need.
I got a Battery tender water proof 5 amp charger.
That is what you need to charge the battery.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 140
From: NY
Go to Batteries Plus.
If you want the top of the line look at a Odyssey battery.
But they still got super good Batteries.
Make sure you get a AGM like somebody said.
Ask about what kind of charger you need.
I got a Battery tender water proof 5 amp charger.
That is what you need to charge the battery.
If you want the top of the line look at a Odyssey battery.
But they still got super good Batteries.
Make sure you get a AGM like somebody said.
Ask about what kind of charger you need.
I got a Battery tender water proof 5 amp charger.
That is what you need to charge the battery.
FYI,i read on mult motorcycle battery mfg's websites (on a few batteries themselves too) that the (30AH) AGM batteries used in our touring bikes should be charged at a max of 3.0-3.2 amps depending on mfg.
States right on the Yuasa GYZ32HL / 500cca battery in my hd to charge at max of 3.2amps for 5-10hr's, believe i read Deka's ETX30L / 400cca battery was to be charged @ max of 3amps.
I " SPARINGLY " use a 1.5amp maint/float charger on my HD'S battery as required,but not 24/7 or often to avoid possibly overcharging due to flaot charge rate holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end only till i unhook the maint/float charger.
But then only a couple hrs later the batt v's go's from the 13.1-13.2v's it was when i 1st removed the charger post being in float charge mode for a few days to a more reasonable 12.85-12.9v's.
I feel holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end when i supposed lower float charge rate/mode is still high enough that over time/days & or wks on end can eventually overheat & or overcharge the battery reducing it's srv'c life causing premature battery failure which i have seen more then a few times over the yrs on motorcycles and classic cars that had maint/float chargers used on them.
To avoid possibly overcharging & damaging the battery i simply remove the maint/float charger from the battery shortly after the battery reaches full charge & maint/float charger has going into float charge mode .
Fully charging the battery can take a varying amount of time depending on how many amps the chargers full charge rate is along with the cond & state of charge the battery being charged has @ the time too.
Scott
Last edited by wscott; Nov 1, 2016 at 12:03 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,975
Likes: 5,213
From: Michigan
You've done well on your battery.
I have a friend who also has a '12 Ultra with 30,000+ miles and it's still going also.
Depending on the climate where you live, and the type of riding you do can make a huge difference in the life of your battery.
We have 4 bikes, wo are what I call "road bikes" which means that we ride them, and we have two "garage queens) that are rarely ridden, or even started frequently.
I replace the batteries in the "road bikes" every third season provided they last that long and rotate those batteries into the "garage queens".
I think a hundred bucks (or so) for three years of reliable battery service that reduces the chances of getting myself (or my wife) stranded on a trip is a bargain.
FWIW, I bought the Odyessey batteries (on sale) for the Softails last spring for just about the cost of an OEM style battery from Battery Mart.
I'm thinking about buying one for my Ultra this spring and rotating the old battery into my generator.
I have a friend who also has a '12 Ultra with 30,000+ miles and it's still going also.
Depending on the climate where you live, and the type of riding you do can make a huge difference in the life of your battery.
We have 4 bikes, wo are what I call "road bikes" which means that we ride them, and we have two "garage queens) that are rarely ridden, or even started frequently.
I replace the batteries in the "road bikes" every third season provided they last that long and rotate those batteries into the "garage queens".
I think a hundred bucks (or so) for three years of reliable battery service that reduces the chances of getting myself (or my wife) stranded on a trip is a bargain.
FWIW, I bought the Odyessey batteries (on sale) for the Softails last spring for just about the cost of an OEM style battery from Battery Mart.
I'm thinking about buying one for my Ultra this spring and rotating the old battery into my generator.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 6
From: Livingston, Texas
=======================
FYI,i read on mult motorcycle battery mfg's websites (on a few batteries themselves too) that the (30AH) AGM batteries used in our touring bikes should be charged at a max of 3.0-3.2 amps depending on mfg.
States right on the Yuasa GYZ32HL / 500cca battery in my hd to charge at max of 3.2amps for 5-10hr's, believe i read Deka's ETX30L / 400cca battery was to be charged @ max of 3amps.
I " SPARINGLY " use a 1.5amp maint/float charger on my HD'S battery as required,but not 24/7 or often to avoid possibly overcharging due to flaot charge rate holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end only till i unhook the maint/float charger.
But then only a couple hrs later the batt v's go's from the 13.1-13.2v's it was when i 1st removed the charger post being in float charge mode for a few days to a more reasonable 12.85-12.9v's.
I feel holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end when i supposed lower float charge rate/mode is still high enough that over time/days & or wks on end can eventually overheat & or overcharge the battery reducing it's srv'c life causing premature battery failure which i have seen more then a few times over the yrs on motorcycles and classic cars that had maint/float chargers used on them.
To avoid possibly overcharging & damaging the battery i simply remove the maint/float charger from the battery shortly after the battery reaches full charge & maint/float charger has going into float charge mode .
Fully charging the battery can take a varying amount of time depending on how many amps the chargers full charge rate is along with the cond & state of charge the battery being charged has @ the time too.
Scott
FYI,i read on mult motorcycle battery mfg's websites (on a few batteries themselves too) that the (30AH) AGM batteries used in our touring bikes should be charged at a max of 3.0-3.2 amps depending on mfg.
States right on the Yuasa GYZ32HL / 500cca battery in my hd to charge at max of 3.2amps for 5-10hr's, believe i read Deka's ETX30L / 400cca battery was to be charged @ max of 3amps.
I " SPARINGLY " use a 1.5amp maint/float charger on my HD'S battery as required,but not 24/7 or often to avoid possibly overcharging due to flaot charge rate holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end only till i unhook the maint/float charger.
But then only a couple hrs later the batt v's go's from the 13.1-13.2v's it was when i 1st removed the charger post being in float charge mode for a few days to a more reasonable 12.85-12.9v's.
I feel holding the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for days on end when i supposed lower float charge rate/mode is still high enough that over time/days & or wks on end can eventually overheat & or overcharge the battery reducing it's srv'c life causing premature battery failure which i have seen more then a few times over the yrs on motorcycles and classic cars that had maint/float chargers used on them.
To avoid possibly overcharging & damaging the battery i simply remove the maint/float charger from the battery shortly after the battery reaches full charge & maint/float charger has going into float charge mode .
Fully charging the battery can take a varying amount of time depending on how many amps the chargers full charge rate is along with the cond & state of charge the battery being charged has @ the time too.
Scott
And I talked with odyssey..they want you to use a charger for ago batteries.
And they want at least 5 amps going into the battery to start.
They said the charger would taper off as it charges .I asked about a 5 amp battery tender. They said I could use it.
But like a 1.78 amp battery tender was not a charger. It would only hel0 keep a charged battery topped off.
That actually don't like something that small..
And they don't like a trickle charger. They like a float charger.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 226
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
Well thanks, I agree 3 1/2 years seems like a short battery life, on my previous bike I had 6 1/2 years and it was never on a tender. I'm not sure the battery is the problem. It ran fine Saturday night, problems started after I washed it Sunday. I put it on the battery tender Monday after it wouldn't start, It showed charge for about 30 minutes, then went into maintenance mode. I went to start it this morning, It sluggishly cranked about 4 revolutions then quit. Lights were all bright. Any suggestions on where to start checking? Could I have knocked something loose when I was washing the engine area? I'm off Thursday, so I guess I should pull battery and have it tested. Can Autozone do a load test, or should I take it to a dealership?
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,675
Likes: 8,401
From: Utah
This is a guide I wrote for trouble shooting my bikes.
I use a Battery tender on our bikes when they are parked in the garage. A good source for information is Yuasa Technical Manual and you'll see on page 16 they state it won't
Overcharge even if connected for long periods of time:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
I use a Battery tender on our bikes when they are parked in the garage. A good source for information is Yuasa Technical Manual and you'll see on page 16 they state it won't
Overcharge even if connected for long periods of time:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 463
From: USA
2012 Road King, about 2 weeks ago I noticed it cranked a little slow after sitting for a week. I'm bad I don't normally put it on the tender except during long term storage. So I started putting it on the tender when I get home from work. It was on the tender Saturday night, I took it off and rolled it outside Sunday for a bath. The tender showed charged, so I didn't hook it back up when I put it back in the garage. Got ready to head to work this morning, It barley turned over, so it's on the tender, and I'll check all the connections when I get home. I guess i'm just glad riding season is about over here in Indiana, and I'll wait until spring before putting in a new battery. Is there any need to keep the tender on during the winter since the battery is done for?
The service you got from the old one was good. My son just had to replace his in his 14 bike. Just went over on the two year factory warranty time. Service writer at local dealer claimed he is seeing two and three year old bikes needing replacement.
Last edited by Taggs; Nov 1, 2016 at 10:18 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: Chile Flats, AZ
Yuasa +1
If and when you decide to replace it, I'd go with the YUASA GYZ32HL. The difference I experienced between the Deka and Yuasa batteries was eye opening to say the least. I will only use Yuasa batteries in my bikes from now on. Got mine in 2 days from the Yuasa store on Amazon with prime.
I still have an old Odyssey in my SUV that is over 10 years old--the 'good' one and the tech said I was lucky to have it... I do have to keep it on a tender because it's on its last legs and I hate to see it go...
I keep both bikes on a tender always... batteries like it.... Good luck.
Senior Rider
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 251
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver Canada
That's interesting.
Many years ago I was a lead-acid "expert" in a continent far away. As part of my training I went to the demolition and destruction test rooms, as well as the new battery build section. The plates would come in and separators mated with them, then the units would be assembled. This included everything from tiny motorcycle batteries to large industrial cells. By weight, nearly 80% of the metal used in those batteries and power cells was recycled - smelted, tested, impurities boiled/filtered out, and recast.
What's the big deal about recycled metal?
Many years ago I was a lead-acid "expert" in a continent far away. As part of my training I went to the demolition and destruction test rooms, as well as the new battery build section. The plates would come in and separators mated with them, then the units would be assembled. This included everything from tiny motorcycle batteries to large industrial cells. By weight, nearly 80% of the metal used in those batteries and power cells was recycled - smelted, tested, impurities boiled/filtered out, and recast.
What's the big deal about recycled metal?